Answers to Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) About Various Billiards and Pool Topics
Categories
Jumps Shots
Jump Shots in Pool and Billiards
... how to hit a jump shot in pool.
(external web-link) for more information:
see "books" section
and Disc V of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Shots
Highly elevated cue jump shot
How can you make the cue ball jump over a close ball, and is it a foul?
See:YouTube video here
Object ball jump shot
Is it possible to jump an object ball over part or all of an obstacle ball?
Yes. See: YouTube video here
Over cutting
Why do I sometimes miss jump cut shots?
If the cue ball hits the object ball while it is airborne, the effective cut angle is larger. In these cases, you need to aim for a fuller hit to get the right cut angle. For more info, see: YouTube video here
The best way to see the effect is to hold a CB up against an OB and visualize a 1/2-ball hit (center-to-edge = CTE). Now slide the CB up on the OB, keeping the CB center in the CTE vertical plane. You will clearly see that different cut angles result, which you can verify by tapping the OB with the CB at different positions.
from Patrick Johnson:
No matter where the CB contacts the OB (on the equator or above it), the point where they make contact will be on the line between their centers (anything else is impossible), and the cut angle will be the line through their centers at that moment (ignoring throw). If you agree that an airborne CB travels farther before hitting the OB, then you must agree that the line through the CB/OB centers changes and therefore the cut angle changes.
Rail jump shot
How can a rail cushion be used to assist a jump shot?
See:YouTube video here
Technique advice and drills
Lots of jump shot advice and demonstrations can be found here: YouTube video
and more YouTube videos here;
HSV B.3 - various jump shot techniques
HSV B.4 - object ball jump shot
HSV B.5 - jump and break shot strokes and grips
HSV B.8 - jump shot off the rail
HSV B.14 - jump shot tip, ball, cloth, slate interaction, with and without a spare piece of cloth
HSV B.19 - highly elevated cue jump shots
HSV B.37 - jump shot over-cut effect and examples
In general, the best technique advice is to use a light jump cue with a hard tip, keep your grip and wrist as relaxed as possible, and follow the generally-recommended stroke best practices. More advice can be found in "VEPS GEMS - Part XV: The Jump Shot" (Download) (BD, March, 2011). Others things not mentioned in the article include: 1.) Most of your weight will be on the front foot and bridge hand, and 2.) It can be more difficult to jump the ball on worn and thin cloth.
Tom Simpson also has some good jump shot instructional videos on YouTube: part 1 and part 2. The dart stroke is useful if you need to reach in front of you or if you need high cue elevation for a close-range and/or short landing jump.
Here are some good drills, from Disc IV of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Practice (VEPP) (external web-link), for practicing and improving your jump shot technique:
... how to hit a jump shot in pool.
(external web-link) for more information:
see "books" section
and Disc V of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Shots
Highly elevated cue jump shot
How can you make the cue ball jump over a close ball, and is it a foul?
See:YouTube video here
Object ball jump shot
Is it possible to jump an object ball over part or all of an obstacle ball?
Yes. See: YouTube video here
Over cutting
Why do I sometimes miss jump cut shots?
If the cue ball hits the object ball while it is airborne, the effective cut angle is larger. In these cases, you need to aim for a fuller hit to get the right cut angle. For more info, see: YouTube video here
The best way to see the effect is to hold a CB up against an OB and visualize a 1/2-ball hit (center-to-edge = CTE). Now slide the CB up on the OB, keeping the CB center in the CTE vertical plane. You will clearly see that different cut angles result, which you can verify by tapping the OB with the CB at different positions.
from Patrick Johnson:
No matter where the CB contacts the OB (on the equator or above it), the point where they make contact will be on the line between their centers (anything else is impossible), and the cut angle will be the line through their centers at that moment (ignoring throw). If you agree that an airborne CB travels farther before hitting the OB, then you must agree that the line through the CB/OB centers changes and therefore the cut angle changes.
Rail jump shot
How can a rail cushion be used to assist a jump shot?
See:YouTube video here
Technique advice and drills
Lots of jump shot advice and demonstrations can be found here: YouTube video
and more YouTube videos here;
HSV B.3 - various jump shot techniques
HSV B.4 - object ball jump shot
HSV B.5 - jump and break shot strokes and grips
HSV B.8 - jump shot off the rail
HSV B.14 - jump shot tip, ball, cloth, slate interaction, with and without a spare piece of cloth
HSV B.19 - highly elevated cue jump shots
HSV B.37 - jump shot over-cut effect and examples
In general, the best technique advice is to use a light jump cue with a hard tip, keep your grip and wrist as relaxed as possible, and follow the generally-recommended stroke best practices. More advice can be found in "VEPS GEMS - Part XV: The Jump Shot" (Download) (BD, March, 2011). Others things not mentioned in the article include: 1.) Most of your weight will be on the front foot and bridge hand, and 2.) It can be more difficult to jump the ball on worn and thin cloth.
Tom Simpson also has some good jump shot instructional videos on YouTube: part 1 and part 2. The dart stroke is useful if you need to reach in front of you or if you need high cue elevation for a close-range and/or short landing jump.
Here are some good drills, from Disc IV of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Practice (VEPP) (external web-link), for practicing and improving your jump shot technique:
For more information and advice, see: "VEPP - Part XII: Jump Shots," (Download) (BD, March, 2013).
from Cornerman:
For a standard grip and standard cue length, I've found after lots of work:
Make your bridge hand as tall as comfortable. Some people with large hands will always have and immediate advantage for jumping.
Collapse the bridge elbow. This forces my front down, while I can keep my grip hand up. Being able to shoot comfortably with this angle is important. Robin Dodson teaches this to people at her Frog demo.
Don't look up when shooting. Wear a hat with a brim. Seriously, for training purposes. When cue-ing, stare at the cue ball and don't look up. Looking up sometimes makes people prematurely come out of their stance prior to hitting the ball. You want all of your stroke going into the cue ball. That being said, your aim line should be correct before you get down on the shot.
Corollary: Drive the cue ball directly into the bed.
Aim at the pit. For starters, hitting at the dead center of the ball (where the pit would be) is going to get you the most bang. Aiming a hair below center (as your cue stick "sees" the cue ball") will be your next step.
Hard tip. One area that is very important to jumping with a full-length cue is that it's going to be easier with a hard tip. Earl Strickland used to shoot with a tremendously hard tip for the times, and he always complained about other people not jumping with their shooting cue. That's one reason he could do it so easily.
Let the cue do the work. This seems to be true for any shot: draw shot, break shot, and even the jump shot. Don't jab or over stroke. If you concentrate on hitting the center of the cue ball, with an angled cue, with a real stroke, it will jump, and jump higher than you can imagine.
After all that, then you can buy a jump cue (if you haven't), use the same techniques above, and you'll be able to jump over anything with ease.
from JB Cases:
Think of a jump shot as any other shot. The difference is that this time you are approaching the ball from an elevated angle.
The center of the cue ball on the outer edge or a better way to say it - the equator - is now at an angle to bed of the table instead of roughly parallel to it. Now to clear a blocking ball the MINIMUM angle you need IS the angle that represents the lowest clear path over the blocking ball.
The closer the two balls the sharper or steeper this angle will be.
The second thing you will need to know is how much force to apply. There is also a minimum amount that is needed and is learned through practice. Force is used to land the cue ball closer or farther from the blocking ball. In this way you can very precisely place the cue ball on a jump shot.
When you approach the shot you should approach it with center ball - no matter what your angle of approach is. When you are looking down at the ball divide it into two halves and the diving line is the center.
Now, you can point the cue tip a little below center and give the cue ball reverse or back spin, or you can go a little above center and give the cue ball forward or follow. You can also add any other side spin that you wish to from this point.
Now, whether using the dart stroke or the pendulum stroke you want to shoot the shot as you would any other with a smooth stroke and follow through. You will quickly find out the minimum force you need to make the cue ball jump over the object ball.
Things to be careful of are excess movement.
These are common mistakes that derail an otherwise perfect set up.
1. When using the pendulum stroke you lunge forward. This cause the tip to dip below where you were pointing it and leads to miscues.
2. When using the pendulum stroke you push you hand down on the final stroke which lifts the tip up.
3. You pull your hand into or away from your body on the final stroke which again pulls the tip off the point you were targeting.
4. You grip the cue with your fingers overlapping the top and thus inhibit a full stroke. This causes the stroke to be too short and causes the stroke to be distorted as well.
5. On the dart stroke you pull you hand down on the final stroke or lunge forward - both of these actions will pull the tip off line.
Basically you need to see the bridge as a fulcrum point. If you are at the proper point to address the cue ball then any other movement will pull the tip off the point you are aiming at and while you may achieve the jumping portion of the shot it's quite likely that you won't achieve the precision placement or desired result.
90% of the problems with jumping balls is due to a faulty stroke, not following through and not stroking straight on the delivery. The other 10% are due to not fully understanding which angle and force to use.
It is a VAST misconception that one cannot control the cue ball on a jump shot. It is a commonly taught idea that hitting the object ball is the goal.
It is not. The goal is to shoot the cue ball in a controlled manner in order to achieve a precise (as precise as possible) result. This is the same as any other shot.
from Cornerman:
For a standard grip and standard cue length, I've found after lots of work:
Make your bridge hand as tall as comfortable. Some people with large hands will always have and immediate advantage for jumping.
Collapse the bridge elbow. This forces my front down, while I can keep my grip hand up. Being able to shoot comfortably with this angle is important. Robin Dodson teaches this to people at her Frog demo.
Don't look up when shooting. Wear a hat with a brim. Seriously, for training purposes. When cue-ing, stare at the cue ball and don't look up. Looking up sometimes makes people prematurely come out of their stance prior to hitting the ball. You want all of your stroke going into the cue ball. That being said, your aim line should be correct before you get down on the shot.
Corollary: Drive the cue ball directly into the bed.
Aim at the pit. For starters, hitting at the dead center of the ball (where the pit would be) is going to get you the most bang. Aiming a hair below center (as your cue stick "sees" the cue ball") will be your next step.
Hard tip. One area that is very important to jumping with a full-length cue is that it's going to be easier with a hard tip. Earl Strickland used to shoot with a tremendously hard tip for the times, and he always complained about other people not jumping with their shooting cue. That's one reason he could do it so easily.
Let the cue do the work. This seems to be true for any shot: draw shot, break shot, and even the jump shot. Don't jab or over stroke. If you concentrate on hitting the center of the cue ball, with an angled cue, with a real stroke, it will jump, and jump higher than you can imagine.
After all that, then you can buy a jump cue (if you haven't), use the same techniques above, and you'll be able to jump over anything with ease.
from JB Cases:
Think of a jump shot as any other shot. The difference is that this time you are approaching the ball from an elevated angle.
The center of the cue ball on the outer edge or a better way to say it - the equator - is now at an angle to bed of the table instead of roughly parallel to it. Now to clear a blocking ball the MINIMUM angle you need IS the angle that represents the lowest clear path over the blocking ball.
The closer the two balls the sharper or steeper this angle will be.
The second thing you will need to know is how much force to apply. There is also a minimum amount that is needed and is learned through practice. Force is used to land the cue ball closer or farther from the blocking ball. In this way you can very precisely place the cue ball on a jump shot.
When you approach the shot you should approach it with center ball - no matter what your angle of approach is. When you are looking down at the ball divide it into two halves and the diving line is the center.
Now, you can point the cue tip a little below center and give the cue ball reverse or back spin, or you can go a little above center and give the cue ball forward or follow. You can also add any other side spin that you wish to from this point.
Now, whether using the dart stroke or the pendulum stroke you want to shoot the shot as you would any other with a smooth stroke and follow through. You will quickly find out the minimum force you need to make the cue ball jump over the object ball.
Things to be careful of are excess movement.
These are common mistakes that derail an otherwise perfect set up.
1. When using the pendulum stroke you lunge forward. This cause the tip to dip below where you were pointing it and leads to miscues.
2. When using the pendulum stroke you push you hand down on the final stroke which lifts the tip up.
3. You pull your hand into or away from your body on the final stroke which again pulls the tip off the point you were targeting.
4. You grip the cue with your fingers overlapping the top and thus inhibit a full stroke. This causes the stroke to be too short and causes the stroke to be distorted as well.
5. On the dart stroke you pull you hand down on the final stroke or lunge forward - both of these actions will pull the tip off line.
Basically you need to see the bridge as a fulcrum point. If you are at the proper point to address the cue ball then any other movement will pull the tip off the point you are aiming at and while you may achieve the jumping portion of the shot it's quite likely that you won't achieve the precision placement or desired result.
90% of the problems with jumping balls is due to a faulty stroke, not following through and not stroking straight on the delivery. The other 10% are due to not fully understanding which angle and force to use.
It is a VAST misconception that one cannot control the cue ball on a jump shot. It is a commonly taught idea that hitting the object ball is the goal.
It is not. The goal is to shoot the cue ball in a controlled manner in order to achieve a precise (as precise as possible) result. This is the same as any other shot.
For more info, visit billiards.colostate.edu
Kick Shots
See: "banks and kicks" section
...how to use diamond systems to aim kick and bank shots in pool
...how to use diamond systems to aim kick and bank shots in pool
For more info, visit billiards.colostate.edu
Lag Shot
Lag Shot in Pool and Billiards
... how to hit and accurately control a lag shot in pool.
What's the best way to hit a lag shot?
Obviously, the goal is to leave the CB as close to the head rail as possible as often as possible. For the best and most consistent speed control, it is better to hit above center. If you hit at or below center, you need to judge the speed loss due to drag on the cloth, and this will vary with cloth and ball conditions.
To help achieve the best speed and distance consistency, it is best to hit the CB at about 20% of the radius above the center (0.2R), which is about 60% of the total ball height. For illustrations and explanations, see "The Lag Shot" (Download) (BD, October, 2011). Hitting above center can also result in a more accuracy with CB direction (see follow accuracy in "follow" section).
When the CB rebound off the rail, it will lose speed due to rail inefficiency. Also, roll into the rail typically converts to stun on rebound (e.g., see HSV B.15 (YouTube)), which slows the ball (due to skidding) even more. That's why it is generally better to try to hit the head rail with your lag shot. This will generally result in the best average lag results (i.e., proximity to the rail). If you are a little short, you will be a little short. If you are a little long, the CB will lose speed off the rebound, and end up very close to the rail ... closer than if you are a little short.
... how to hit and accurately control a lag shot in pool.
What's the best way to hit a lag shot?
Obviously, the goal is to leave the CB as close to the head rail as possible as often as possible. For the best and most consistent speed control, it is better to hit above center. If you hit at or below center, you need to judge the speed loss due to drag on the cloth, and this will vary with cloth and ball conditions.
To help achieve the best speed and distance consistency, it is best to hit the CB at about 20% of the radius above the center (0.2R), which is about 60% of the total ball height. For illustrations and explanations, see "The Lag Shot" (Download) (BD, October, 2011). Hitting above center can also result in a more accuracy with CB direction (see follow accuracy in "follow" section).
When the CB rebound off the rail, it will lose speed due to rail inefficiency. Also, roll into the rail typically converts to stun on rebound (e.g., see HSV B.15 (YouTube)), which slows the ball (due to skidding) even more. That's why it is generally better to try to hit the head rail with your lag shot. This will generally result in the best average lag results (i.e., proximity to the rail). If you are a little short, you will be a little short. If you are a little long, the CB will lose speed off the rebound, and end up very close to the rail ... closer than if you are a little short.
For more info, visit billiards.colostate.edu
Masse Shot
Masse Shot in Pool and Billiards
... how to hit and aim a masse shot in pool.
(external web-links) for more information:
see Section 7.09 in The Illustrated Principles of Pool and Billiards in "books" section
and Disc V of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Shots
After-collision masse shots
What are some examples of how masse curve after object ball contact is useful?
Explanations and examples of this can be found here: (YouTube Videos)
Aiming
How do you aim masse shots?
"VEPS GEMS - Part XVI: The Masse Shot" (Download) (BD, April, 2011) and "Coriolis was brilliant ... but he didn't have a high-speed camera - Part V: masse shot aiming" (Download) (BD, November, 2005), and Bob Jewett's December '97 article (Download), explain and illustrate a method that can be used to help aim masse shots. It was discovered in the early 1800s by a famous mathematician and physicist named Gustave Coriolis. It can also be referred to as the "BAR" method ("B" for ball contact point, "A" for cloth aim point, and "R" for CB resting point). For a demonstrations, see this video from Disc V of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Shots: (external web-link)
... how to hit and aim a masse shot in pool.
(external web-links) for more information:
see Section 7.09 in The Illustrated Principles of Pool and Billiards in "books" section
and Disc V of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Shots
After-collision masse shots
What are some examples of how masse curve after object ball contact is useful?
Explanations and examples of this can be found here: (YouTube Videos)
- NV B.37 - Mike Page's after-collision masse
- NV B.38 - After-collision masse example with a nearly straight-in shots, with Tom Ross
- NV B.39 - After-collision masse example to avoid an obstacle ball, with Tom Ross
Aiming
How do you aim masse shots?
"VEPS GEMS - Part XVI: The Masse Shot" (Download) (BD, April, 2011) and "Coriolis was brilliant ... but he didn't have a high-speed camera - Part V: masse shot aiming" (Download) (BD, November, 2005), and Bob Jewett's December '97 article (Download), explain and illustrate a method that can be used to help aim masse shots. It was discovered in the early 1800s by a famous mathematician and physicist named Gustave Coriolis. It can also be referred to as the "BAR" method ("B" for ball contact point, "A" for cloth aim point, and "R" for CB resting point). For a demonstrations, see this video from Disc V of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Shots: (external web-link)
More information and examples can be found here:
Cue and tip
Can a different cue or tip make masse shots easier?
Yes. Generally, people will be more comfortable with a shorter cue (especially with low ceiling height). However, the cue must have enough weight to drive into and impart spin to the ball. The cue should also have a larger diameter shaft to help it withstand the abuse of masse shots. Some people prefer a softer tip, but it won't hold up to abuse as well as a harder tip. But with a harder tip, you need to make sure it is well chalked (as with any tip) and that it is holding the chalk well to provide good contact with the ball. A medium-hard tip offers the good compromise of durability and chalk-holding reliability.
from Bob Jewett:
The cue that the artistic billiards players typically use is short, heavy and has a 14-16 mm tip. Maybe 50 inches and 24 ounces. If you're going to be playing these shots in matches, you have to decide which cue you're going to be using for them. Also, the tip is typically soft, which means that your break cue is probably not appropriate. I think the soft tip helps keep the ball on the table.
Be prepared to change tips.
Wax the cue ball to get action more like on new cloth. If your cloth is old, there are two problems. The cue ball will tend to stick to the cloth as it's driven into it, which tends to kill the action and/or rip the cloth. The spin will take quickly, which doesn't get you the big arcs you're looking for.
from 1hit1der:
Most jump cues will have a phenolic tip. Masse cues will use a leather tip because you still need grip to impart all that spin. A lot of masse cues will have a larger tip (14 mm). Some jump cues will, but most stay around 13 mm. I like a lighter masse cue, between 19-21 oz. I'll use a heavier one (24 oz) on certain shots. But some guys have them up to 30 oz or more. Jump cues tend to stay between 6-10 oz. Masse cues will also tend to be a little longer than jump cues. Most jump cues stay around 40 inches, I think primarily because of the weight issue. Masse cues are usually between 46-52 inches (don't take these numbers as hard stops though). Check out the articles below I wrote on each type of cue to get a little more specifications on them.
Article one (external web-link)
Article two (external web-link)
Elevation and speed effects
How do cue elevation and stroke speed affect masse shots?
More elevation results in less cue ball speed. Less speed results in the CB curving sooner. For more info, see the second half of "Coriolis was brilliant ... but he didn't have a high-speed camera - Part V: masse shot aiming" (Download) (BD, November, 2005).
Technique advice
How can I improve my masse shot technique?
This video from Disc V of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Shots (external web-link) provides a good summary and demonstration of important technique elements:
- NV B.41 - Coriolis masse shot aiming method with a large-curve example
- NV B.42 - Coriolis masse shot aiming method small-curve example
Cue and tip
Can a different cue or tip make masse shots easier?
Yes. Generally, people will be more comfortable with a shorter cue (especially with low ceiling height). However, the cue must have enough weight to drive into and impart spin to the ball. The cue should also have a larger diameter shaft to help it withstand the abuse of masse shots. Some people prefer a softer tip, but it won't hold up to abuse as well as a harder tip. But with a harder tip, you need to make sure it is well chalked (as with any tip) and that it is holding the chalk well to provide good contact with the ball. A medium-hard tip offers the good compromise of durability and chalk-holding reliability.
from Bob Jewett:
The cue that the artistic billiards players typically use is short, heavy and has a 14-16 mm tip. Maybe 50 inches and 24 ounces. If you're going to be playing these shots in matches, you have to decide which cue you're going to be using for them. Also, the tip is typically soft, which means that your break cue is probably not appropriate. I think the soft tip helps keep the ball on the table.
Be prepared to change tips.
Wax the cue ball to get action more like on new cloth. If your cloth is old, there are two problems. The cue ball will tend to stick to the cloth as it's driven into it, which tends to kill the action and/or rip the cloth. The spin will take quickly, which doesn't get you the big arcs you're looking for.
from 1hit1der:
Most jump cues will have a phenolic tip. Masse cues will use a leather tip because you still need grip to impart all that spin. A lot of masse cues will have a larger tip (14 mm). Some jump cues will, but most stay around 13 mm. I like a lighter masse cue, between 19-21 oz. I'll use a heavier one (24 oz) on certain shots. But some guys have them up to 30 oz or more. Jump cues tend to stay between 6-10 oz. Masse cues will also tend to be a little longer than jump cues. Most jump cues stay around 40 inches, I think primarily because of the weight issue. Masse cues are usually between 46-52 inches (don't take these numbers as hard stops though). Check out the articles below I wrote on each type of cue to get a little more specifications on them.
Article one (external web-link)
Article two (external web-link)
Elevation and speed effects
How do cue elevation and stroke speed affect masse shots?
More elevation results in less cue ball speed. Less speed results in the CB curving sooner. For more info, see the second half of "Coriolis was brilliant ... but he didn't have a high-speed camera - Part V: masse shot aiming" (Download) (BD, November, 2005).
Technique advice
How can I improve my masse shot technique?
This video from Disc V of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Shots (external web-link) provides a good summary and demonstration of important technique elements:
Bob Jewett also has a good set of articles dealing with the masse shot here: (Downloads)
Welcome to Masse 101 (BD, December '97) -- basic masse concepts
Masse 102 (BD, February '98) -- masse techniques and practice
The Right Time to Masse (BD, March '98) -- sometimes it's the right shot
Welcome to Masse 101 (BD, December '97) -- basic masse concepts
Masse 102 (BD, February '98) -- masse techniques and practice
The Right Time to Masse (BD, March '98) -- sometimes it's the right shot
For more info, visit billiards.colostate.edu
Miscue
See "squirt" section for miscue limits
See "fouls" section for miscue fouls
See "fouls" section for miscue fouls
For more info, visit billiards.colostate.edu
Mental Aspects
Mental Aspects in Pool and Billiards
... how to deal with and be aware of the mental side or mental game of pool.
external web-links) for more information:
see The Compete Instructional Works of Tom Ross - Volume II: Mental Aspects and Joe Waldron's collection of articles dealing with the mental side of pool
Changing bad habits
What can I do to change a bad habit I've had for years?
Here's a good article (external web-link) on this topic.
"Choking" - how to help prevent
What advice do you have for trying to prevent choking?
Think before you shoot. Don't think when you shoot ... just focus and execute. Also: breath, especially if you are nervous ... in which case you should take several deep breaths before each shot. Also, here is a good article discussing choking and how to prevent it:
Competitive Anxiety (external web-link)
"Dead stroke," and being in the zone
What does it mean to be in "dead stroke" or "in the zone?"
from JoeW:
The zone that most people try to describe is a state of altered consciousness more commonly known as self hypnosis in which the person is intensely focused, unaware of the environment and relaxed. For the most part they are thoroughly immersed in the topic and are non-judgmental. It is generally a very positive state in which the subconscious is directing most of the behavior.
You have been hypnotized many times. When you “get lost” in a good TV show or a good book. Someone calls your name and you don’t answer. They call your name again, louder and you say, “Sorry, I heard you but I wasn’t listening.” This is self hypnosis or the zone. A rose by any other name …
Contrary to some comments, intelligent, creative people are good subjects for hypnosis. Once learned, or over learned, the person can drop into or out of the state at will. Usually a triggering mechanism such as tapping one’s non-dominant foot can be used as a trigger.
Watch Reyes or Deuel when they are in a match. Notice that each man is extremely loose and seems to be nonchalant as they walk around the table. This looseness is indicative of a person who is “lost” in the moment. Some might call it a form of the zone – lite zone if you will.
To some extent the zone is made out to be nearly a mystical state that is sought but unobtainable with intent. This is not true and you can see a light zone in these two players if you watch closely when they are on about the third ball in a run.
The trick, if there is one, is that to get in the zone one must be non-judgmental (about self) and yet have the ability to analyze a table and then allow the body / subconscious to make the shot. For most people this means coming in and out of the zone as each shot is analyzed. This can be done but requires some effort.
It is better to over learn table analysis and then allow the subconscious to conduct the analysis and never leave the zone while playing. This takes a considerable amount of “trust” in one’s self and is therefore difficult.
If you watch the pros mentioned you will also see that they usually sit quietly on the side lines waiting for their next turn. In essence they are not doing anything that will pull them from the edge of this altered state of consciousness that is so helpful to excellent play. They are not robots but are using a different way to be aware of the world.
BTW, for those who think the sub-conscious is bunk, explain how your conscious mind calculates the cue ball return. I submit that you cannot tell me what you tell your muscles to get the X power to move a ball Y distance after it hits a rail with Z amount of side spin. These calculations are made by your subconscious. Simply put, you do not know how that side of you does it, but it can do it amazing well for a part of the mind that does not use language.
from JoeW:
I was out playing awhile ago and it occurred to me (partially based on the conversation here) that I often have something like a verbal dialog in my head when I think through a shot or series of shots. I guess that some people would call it “thinking” about a shot. I decided to try and stop “thinking” at least in words and just look at the shot and the next two balls (in a 9-Ball game) then shoot.
This technique seems to help with positional play. The subconscious seemed to have more control over the process. Now I wonder if some elements of playing in the zone or in dead stroke use this non-thinking cognitive process to play.
I suspect that it is worth a try for any who are interested. Try to just look at the table and the shot with no verbal dialog in your head. I do not have a good way to describe the process. It is something like being an observer of your own actions. I was surprised, first by the better than expected position on the next shot and next by the idea that twice (in about 20 shots) I played well to a position on the table that I would not normally play.
I also noted that the subconscious is better at deciding cue tip placement than my thoughts on the matter. I am too picky about the exact spot. The subconscious seems to be more aware of muscle control and tip placement as a unified concept. If I just let it happen the position was better. The subconscious also seems to be better able to compensate for squirt and throw. I did notice that my eyes tend to look more at the table and track where the cue ball will go. Perhaps this is where the “see the nap” idea comes from. When I “think,” I seem to be more focused on the lines and the angles.
In 30 minutes I have stumbled on a way to play that seems to be quite a bit better than my usual way. Of course any new technique produces an immediate good effect. This is known as the Hawthorn Effect for those who may remember from Intro to Psych class. None-the-less, the non-thinking routine does seem to enhance my game and may be a precursor to the zone.
From what I know about hypnosis, letting go of verbal dialog is definitely part of the process so it should help to set up or maybe even induce some sort of flow or zone like behavior.
Knowledge can be useful, but you still need skill
What is the difference between "knowledge" and "skill" and do they go hand in hand?
To me "skills" are things like: accurate and consistent aiming and alignment, a straight and consistent stroke, accurate and consistent speed control, ability to consistently generate power and accuracy with the break shot, ability (not knowledge) to execute skill shots like jump and masse, etc.!!! Skill comes easier to some people based partly on natural abilities (good 3D perception and visualization, good eyesight and vision, good eye-hand-coordination, good fine-motor control, etc.). But "skill" comes mostly from putting in lots and table time working on drills, practicing, playing, and shooting thousands of shots. A good instructor can also help a person work on and improve their skills. "Knowledge" can help some people develop some skills "faster" because "knowledge" can help somebody practice more efficiently, and better see and understand certain trends and ball reactions. A knowledgeable instructor can also help with providing this sort of insight. Also, with knowledge, some skills can be learned the "right way," possibly helping to reduce wasted time, frustration, and loss of confidence.
To me, "knowledge" includes stuff like: knowing the recommended "best practices" for technique (e.g., stroke mechanics); understanding the basic principles of position control (90-degree rule, 30-degree rule, think 3 balls ahead, leaving angles, cheating pockets, coming into the line vs. crossing a line, etc.!!!); understanding the basic principles of english (what type of english to use on different shots, the effects of outside vs. inside english, how to use english effectively with rail cut shots, the effects of squirt/swerve/throw and how they vary with speed, angle, and spin, and when these effects can help you and knowing how to compensate for them when they can hurt you, what back-hand-english is and when it works and when it doesn't, etc.!!!); knowing about all of the creative options that exist in different situations (e.g., knowing all of the ways to play safe and when, "seeing" carom and billiards opportunities, knowing when and how to use kiss-back and double-kiss shots, etc. !!!); knowing how to aim kick and bank shots and knowing how to adjust for the effects of speed, spin, angle, distance, conditions, outside vs. inside cuts; knowing how (even if you don't have the skill or physical ability) to execute various types of "skill" shots (proper jump shot technique, how to aim masse shots, how and when to use after-collision masse, understanding when and how to use quick-draw, etc. !!!); etc. !!!
I have met some players with incredibly "skill" who didn't "know" that squirt can vary from one cue to another, or that throw exists and that it is more for a stun shot than with a follow or draw shot, or how to control the CB with a rail cut shot by hitting ball-first vs. rail first, or that maximum slow-roll CB angle-deflection occurs with close to a half-ball hit, or how to aim two-rail and three-rail kicks using the Plus-2 and Corner-5 systems, or how spin-transfer affects bank shots, or how to aim a masse shot, or how elbow-drop affects a draw shot, etc., etc., etc.!!! This is important "knowledge."
Having said all of this, "knowledge" cannot make you a better pool player if you don't put in time to develop the "skills" necessary to apply the knowledge. However, "skills" can sometimes be developed more quickly and with less frustration if a person has more knowledge. Now, once a certain level of "skill" has been achieved, knowledge can still help that person improve (e.g., by learning about advanced strategy you might not appreciate, or by learning how to make certain types of shots you still might not be aware of, or by better learning how and why you might be missing certain shots, etc. !!!).
In summary, everybody can benefit from "knowledge," regardless of their "skill" level, if they are open-minded and appreciate the value of the knowledge. However, some people will always have the mentality: "If you don't play 'better' than me right now, how can you teach me anything?" These people probably can't benefit from new knowledge, because they think they already know everything.
Learning mental control
How can I learn to improve my mental control?
Articles from Joe Waldron related to this topic can be found here. (external web-link)
Learning vs. intuition
Are "intuition" and "knowledge" related?
from Patrick Johnson:
Your intuition (your "feel") doesn't just appear magically, you have to build it - and building it by learning and applying knowledge during practice (infusing experience with knowledge) is the most efficient and effective way.
from mikepage:
Some people insist they learn only by practice (repetition) and feel they are doing something fundamentally different from someone else who practices and also tries overtly to understand what is going on. I believe they are not doing something fundamentally different.
Here is my view of how we learn things. When you say to yourself, 'ah, I remember this shot,' or 'I know how to hit this,' or 'I need to hit this shot hard on this table to get around three rails,' think about where this 'intuitive' knowledge comes from. It comes from experience for sure. It comes from remembering things that have happened before in similar situations. But how do you go about 'remembering' the right things?
When you hit a ball and get a certain result (say the cue ball rolls a certain distance) just what is it that you remember about the experience. I'm not talking about a conscious remembering, I'm talking about the development of intuition. Do you remember what you were wearing? Do you remember the day of the week? Do you remember who you're playing? Do you remember what music was playing? Do you remember who's at the table next to you? Do you remember whether your shoes feel tight? Do you remember whether you're thirsty? Do you remember whether the balls are shiny? Do you remember whether you got to bed early the night before? .... There are countless potential pieces of information to catalog when you shoot that shot, and somehow in time we start to catalog many of the right things.
This process of learning *what* to catalog is about building a model of the situation. To separate the reams of (possibly) useless information from the useful information, we must create models of the world around us. This is not just what the analytical types do, this is what *everyone* does. It's the way we establish our world view, our concept of reality. When we get a feeling a table plays fast, there are definite characteristics of a physical model that are implied. It's implied that there is a "table speed" that is characteristic of all shots on that table that day. It's implied that soft-hit shots and hard-hit shots are both affected similarly. It's implied that the "speed" across the table is the same as the "speed" up and down the table. It's implied that if the cueball rolls fast, the object balls roll fast too, and on and on.
Some of these models we develop on our own; others we get from other people. A model can be wrong and still be useful in a practical sense. The model that the earth is flat is useful for compiling information and developing intuition so long as we don't travel too far. In pool, the model that to get draw, you have to accelerate through the ball or have a long follow through are for the most part useful--or at least not harmful.
The difficulty comes when you try to extend your knowledge to new situations. If your model is not consistent with the results, you won't catalog the right things, and learning will be retarded.
Here is an analogy: Take someone who has never driven a car
before--someone from a remote jungle tribe who had never even heard of a car. Give him a rear-wheel drive vehicle and let him drive in the snow and ice for thousands of hours. Don't let him see the car from the outside at all or even know it has wheels, let alone how many. In time he will get very good at not getting stuck and at figuring out what he can get away with and what he can't. He will learn how to steer when he starts to skid in order to best regain control. He will learn by doing and develop an intuition. He also will, necessarily, have developed models that go along with this intuition. And those models will fit his experience pretty well.
Now, give this jungle tribesperson a *front wheel drive* vehicle. The person will have a hell of a time. Things won't seem to work right, but it won't make any sense. Thing'll just seem all screwed up. His models will be useless. Learning about the new situation will be very difficult.
*IF* however, his model of the situation--from the beginning-- involved understanding the first car was rear-wheel drive, and that steering involved the front wheels, and if the person had this context while developing intuition and skills in the first place, then it will be much easier for him to extend his intuition to the front-wheel drive situation, where you have to steer in a different direction and do different things when you start to skid.
This is my long winded way to say that learning things about the physics of pool and about squirt and swerve, etc--for those of us who like to do it--just contribute for us to the development of our models that are inextricably linked to the development of our intuition. You can learn to play pool very well without making any overt effort to understand what's going on. [Stay inside the car if you want to] But all else being equal, you will be better off the more effort you put into understanding what is going on.
Physics "understanding" sometimes provides useful insight
How can physics analyses help my pool game?
The purpose of the physics analyses and discussions isn't always just to help make your game better. Often, it is just to help develop a better understanding of what is going on with the physics. Now, sometimes that improved understanding can help lead to insight and technique advice that can help at the table. Two good examples are the 30-degree rule and squirt, swerve, and throw effects. In both of these cases, the insight gained from the physics can go a long way to helping people develop and improve faster. Also, for some people, understanding can help improve confidence. Anytime one can back up intuition with understanding, one will usually have more confidence. That way, when one gets down in the stance, one can better focus on confidently executing the shot, without having to subconsciously doubt one's intuition.
Now, top players who have perfect intuition don't need to "understand" the 30-degree rule peace-sign technique, or how to achieve maximum throw, or the effects of inside vs. outside english, or rail cut-shot physics, because they instinctively know all of this stuff based on intuition and confidence built from years and years of successful practice and play. They "just know" where the balls will go on every shot. However, for everybody else, a little knowledge, understanding, and insight can help one improve faster and have more confidence.
Regardless, nothing beats endless hours of purposeful practice and successful experience. And even with knowledge and understanding, lots of practice time is still required to create the intuition and feel necessary to apply the knowledge and understanding. However, this doesn't mean that knowledge and understanding is a bad thing. For the many people who don't have the desire or ability to dedicate a large percentage of their life to table time, the knowledge and understanding can help them progress faster and be more efficient with their limited practice time. For the few people who are able to dedicate enormous amounts of time at the table, the knowledge and understanding aren't as important because they will develop an intuitive feel for everything as the Game teaches them, assuming they don't have extreme technique flaws and/or gross misunderstandings that limit or dramatically slow their development.
Another important point is that knowledge and understanding should not cause you to over think a shot. More importantly, one should definitely not be thinking during a shot. However, it can sometimes help a lot to think before a shot. Intuition and feel created by countless hours of purposeful practice and successful experience also helps.
Is there anything wrong with not understanding pool physics?
No, but sometimes it can cause misconceptions. Here are some classic examples where people sometimes have "physically incorrect" thinking but get the desired results anyway:
1.) "On a break shot, aim and hit the CB below center to squat the rock." To park the CB in the center of the table on a power break shot, the tip must actually hit the CB slightly above center; although, with elbow drop common with a power break, one must aim below center so the tip will end up hitting slightly above center (see BU break advice video (YouTube)).
2.) "To get good draw action on a straight shot, you need to elevate the cue." This is completely wrong, but it might help some people get more draw. One reason is that some people don't aim low enough on the CB, or they drop their elbow during the stroke into the ball. By elevating, they might be getting a lower effective tip position due to the downward angle of the cue (see cue elevation tip offset illustration (Image)), and the elevated stroke might change the timing of their elbow drop. For more info, see the cue elevation effects in "cue ball" section.
3.) "The type of stroke directly affects the action of a shot." In reality, all the CB "cares" about is the hit (cue speed, tip contact point, and the direction of the cue at contact with the CB). For more info, see the stroke "type" and "quality" in "stroke" section.
Technical knowledge is not enough
Can knowledge alone make somebody a great player?
Obviously not. Knowledge alone is not usually a deciding factor in a match between two really good players. They already know what they need to know to be top players (i.e., they already have lots of "knowledge"). Knowledge doesn't make somebody a good player, but it can dramatically speed up the learning process for many beginner to intermediate players. For example, if someone learns the 30-degree-rule peace-sign technique, he or she will immediately know where the CB will go for many shots. The alternative is to spend years building intuition to serve as a substitute for the knowledge. Most top players "just know" where the CB will go; but most beginner and intermediate players don't know, and they can benefit from the knowledge.
I remember when I first started using english many many years ago, every once in a while I would miss a shot even though I was sure I hit where I was aiming, and I would be shocked that I missed the shot. In hindsight, I think I missed many of those shots because I didn't fully understanding or have good intuition of the effects of squirt, swerve, and throw (especially throw, when playing on bar tables where the ball conditions were less than ideal), or I wasn't experienced enough to make better decisions concerning when and how english should be used. I personally think many players (at all levels) can benefit from improving their knowledge and understanding of the game.
Now, to get to the point where you can consistently run racks, you need to have lots of skills that can come only with lots of practice and play. To consistently run racks, one needs a repeatable stroke, great visualization and aiming, great speed control, good planning, good judgment, good mental focus, determination, etc! "Knowledge" and "understanding" alone do not provide these things.
... how to deal with and be aware of the mental side or mental game of pool.
external web-links) for more information:
see The Compete Instructional Works of Tom Ross - Volume II: Mental Aspects and Joe Waldron's collection of articles dealing with the mental side of pool
Changing bad habits
What can I do to change a bad habit I've had for years?
Here's a good article (external web-link) on this topic.
"Choking" - how to help prevent
What advice do you have for trying to prevent choking?
Think before you shoot. Don't think when you shoot ... just focus and execute. Also: breath, especially if you are nervous ... in which case you should take several deep breaths before each shot. Also, here is a good article discussing choking and how to prevent it:
Competitive Anxiety (external web-link)
"Dead stroke," and being in the zone
What does it mean to be in "dead stroke" or "in the zone?"
from JoeW:
The zone that most people try to describe is a state of altered consciousness more commonly known as self hypnosis in which the person is intensely focused, unaware of the environment and relaxed. For the most part they are thoroughly immersed in the topic and are non-judgmental. It is generally a very positive state in which the subconscious is directing most of the behavior.
You have been hypnotized many times. When you “get lost” in a good TV show or a good book. Someone calls your name and you don’t answer. They call your name again, louder and you say, “Sorry, I heard you but I wasn’t listening.” This is self hypnosis or the zone. A rose by any other name …
Contrary to some comments, intelligent, creative people are good subjects for hypnosis. Once learned, or over learned, the person can drop into or out of the state at will. Usually a triggering mechanism such as tapping one’s non-dominant foot can be used as a trigger.
Watch Reyes or Deuel when they are in a match. Notice that each man is extremely loose and seems to be nonchalant as they walk around the table. This looseness is indicative of a person who is “lost” in the moment. Some might call it a form of the zone – lite zone if you will.
To some extent the zone is made out to be nearly a mystical state that is sought but unobtainable with intent. This is not true and you can see a light zone in these two players if you watch closely when they are on about the third ball in a run.
The trick, if there is one, is that to get in the zone one must be non-judgmental (about self) and yet have the ability to analyze a table and then allow the body / subconscious to make the shot. For most people this means coming in and out of the zone as each shot is analyzed. This can be done but requires some effort.
It is better to over learn table analysis and then allow the subconscious to conduct the analysis and never leave the zone while playing. This takes a considerable amount of “trust” in one’s self and is therefore difficult.
If you watch the pros mentioned you will also see that they usually sit quietly on the side lines waiting for their next turn. In essence they are not doing anything that will pull them from the edge of this altered state of consciousness that is so helpful to excellent play. They are not robots but are using a different way to be aware of the world.
BTW, for those who think the sub-conscious is bunk, explain how your conscious mind calculates the cue ball return. I submit that you cannot tell me what you tell your muscles to get the X power to move a ball Y distance after it hits a rail with Z amount of side spin. These calculations are made by your subconscious. Simply put, you do not know how that side of you does it, but it can do it amazing well for a part of the mind that does not use language.
from JoeW:
I was out playing awhile ago and it occurred to me (partially based on the conversation here) that I often have something like a verbal dialog in my head when I think through a shot or series of shots. I guess that some people would call it “thinking” about a shot. I decided to try and stop “thinking” at least in words and just look at the shot and the next two balls (in a 9-Ball game) then shoot.
This technique seems to help with positional play. The subconscious seemed to have more control over the process. Now I wonder if some elements of playing in the zone or in dead stroke use this non-thinking cognitive process to play.
I suspect that it is worth a try for any who are interested. Try to just look at the table and the shot with no verbal dialog in your head. I do not have a good way to describe the process. It is something like being an observer of your own actions. I was surprised, first by the better than expected position on the next shot and next by the idea that twice (in about 20 shots) I played well to a position on the table that I would not normally play.
I also noted that the subconscious is better at deciding cue tip placement than my thoughts on the matter. I am too picky about the exact spot. The subconscious seems to be more aware of muscle control and tip placement as a unified concept. If I just let it happen the position was better. The subconscious also seems to be better able to compensate for squirt and throw. I did notice that my eyes tend to look more at the table and track where the cue ball will go. Perhaps this is where the “see the nap” idea comes from. When I “think,” I seem to be more focused on the lines and the angles.
In 30 minutes I have stumbled on a way to play that seems to be quite a bit better than my usual way. Of course any new technique produces an immediate good effect. This is known as the Hawthorn Effect for those who may remember from Intro to Psych class. None-the-less, the non-thinking routine does seem to enhance my game and may be a precursor to the zone.
From what I know about hypnosis, letting go of verbal dialog is definitely part of the process so it should help to set up or maybe even induce some sort of flow or zone like behavior.
Knowledge can be useful, but you still need skill
What is the difference between "knowledge" and "skill" and do they go hand in hand?
To me "skills" are things like: accurate and consistent aiming and alignment, a straight and consistent stroke, accurate and consistent speed control, ability to consistently generate power and accuracy with the break shot, ability (not knowledge) to execute skill shots like jump and masse, etc.!!! Skill comes easier to some people based partly on natural abilities (good 3D perception and visualization, good eyesight and vision, good eye-hand-coordination, good fine-motor control, etc.). But "skill" comes mostly from putting in lots and table time working on drills, practicing, playing, and shooting thousands of shots. A good instructor can also help a person work on and improve their skills. "Knowledge" can help some people develop some skills "faster" because "knowledge" can help somebody practice more efficiently, and better see and understand certain trends and ball reactions. A knowledgeable instructor can also help with providing this sort of insight. Also, with knowledge, some skills can be learned the "right way," possibly helping to reduce wasted time, frustration, and loss of confidence.
To me, "knowledge" includes stuff like: knowing the recommended "best practices" for technique (e.g., stroke mechanics); understanding the basic principles of position control (90-degree rule, 30-degree rule, think 3 balls ahead, leaving angles, cheating pockets, coming into the line vs. crossing a line, etc.!!!); understanding the basic principles of english (what type of english to use on different shots, the effects of outside vs. inside english, how to use english effectively with rail cut shots, the effects of squirt/swerve/throw and how they vary with speed, angle, and spin, and when these effects can help you and knowing how to compensate for them when they can hurt you, what back-hand-english is and when it works and when it doesn't, etc.!!!); knowing about all of the creative options that exist in different situations (e.g., knowing all of the ways to play safe and when, "seeing" carom and billiards opportunities, knowing when and how to use kiss-back and double-kiss shots, etc. !!!); knowing how to aim kick and bank shots and knowing how to adjust for the effects of speed, spin, angle, distance, conditions, outside vs. inside cuts; knowing how (even if you don't have the skill or physical ability) to execute various types of "skill" shots (proper jump shot technique, how to aim masse shots, how and when to use after-collision masse, understanding when and how to use quick-draw, etc. !!!); etc. !!!
I have met some players with incredibly "skill" who didn't "know" that squirt can vary from one cue to another, or that throw exists and that it is more for a stun shot than with a follow or draw shot, or how to control the CB with a rail cut shot by hitting ball-first vs. rail first, or that maximum slow-roll CB angle-deflection occurs with close to a half-ball hit, or how to aim two-rail and three-rail kicks using the Plus-2 and Corner-5 systems, or how spin-transfer affects bank shots, or how to aim a masse shot, or how elbow-drop affects a draw shot, etc., etc., etc.!!! This is important "knowledge."
Having said all of this, "knowledge" cannot make you a better pool player if you don't put in time to develop the "skills" necessary to apply the knowledge. However, "skills" can sometimes be developed more quickly and with less frustration if a person has more knowledge. Now, once a certain level of "skill" has been achieved, knowledge can still help that person improve (e.g., by learning about advanced strategy you might not appreciate, or by learning how to make certain types of shots you still might not be aware of, or by better learning how and why you might be missing certain shots, etc. !!!).
In summary, everybody can benefit from "knowledge," regardless of their "skill" level, if they are open-minded and appreciate the value of the knowledge. However, some people will always have the mentality: "If you don't play 'better' than me right now, how can you teach me anything?" These people probably can't benefit from new knowledge, because they think they already know everything.
Learning mental control
How can I learn to improve my mental control?
Articles from Joe Waldron related to this topic can be found here. (external web-link)
Learning vs. intuition
Are "intuition" and "knowledge" related?
from Patrick Johnson:
Your intuition (your "feel") doesn't just appear magically, you have to build it - and building it by learning and applying knowledge during practice (infusing experience with knowledge) is the most efficient and effective way.
from mikepage:
Some people insist they learn only by practice (repetition) and feel they are doing something fundamentally different from someone else who practices and also tries overtly to understand what is going on. I believe they are not doing something fundamentally different.
Here is my view of how we learn things. When you say to yourself, 'ah, I remember this shot,' or 'I know how to hit this,' or 'I need to hit this shot hard on this table to get around three rails,' think about where this 'intuitive' knowledge comes from. It comes from experience for sure. It comes from remembering things that have happened before in similar situations. But how do you go about 'remembering' the right things?
When you hit a ball and get a certain result (say the cue ball rolls a certain distance) just what is it that you remember about the experience. I'm not talking about a conscious remembering, I'm talking about the development of intuition. Do you remember what you were wearing? Do you remember the day of the week? Do you remember who you're playing? Do you remember what music was playing? Do you remember who's at the table next to you? Do you remember whether your shoes feel tight? Do you remember whether you're thirsty? Do you remember whether the balls are shiny? Do you remember whether you got to bed early the night before? .... There are countless potential pieces of information to catalog when you shoot that shot, and somehow in time we start to catalog many of the right things.
This process of learning *what* to catalog is about building a model of the situation. To separate the reams of (possibly) useless information from the useful information, we must create models of the world around us. This is not just what the analytical types do, this is what *everyone* does. It's the way we establish our world view, our concept of reality. When we get a feeling a table plays fast, there are definite characteristics of a physical model that are implied. It's implied that there is a "table speed" that is characteristic of all shots on that table that day. It's implied that soft-hit shots and hard-hit shots are both affected similarly. It's implied that the "speed" across the table is the same as the "speed" up and down the table. It's implied that if the cueball rolls fast, the object balls roll fast too, and on and on.
Some of these models we develop on our own; others we get from other people. A model can be wrong and still be useful in a practical sense. The model that the earth is flat is useful for compiling information and developing intuition so long as we don't travel too far. In pool, the model that to get draw, you have to accelerate through the ball or have a long follow through are for the most part useful--or at least not harmful.
The difficulty comes when you try to extend your knowledge to new situations. If your model is not consistent with the results, you won't catalog the right things, and learning will be retarded.
Here is an analogy: Take someone who has never driven a car
before--someone from a remote jungle tribe who had never even heard of a car. Give him a rear-wheel drive vehicle and let him drive in the snow and ice for thousands of hours. Don't let him see the car from the outside at all or even know it has wheels, let alone how many. In time he will get very good at not getting stuck and at figuring out what he can get away with and what he can't. He will learn how to steer when he starts to skid in order to best regain control. He will learn by doing and develop an intuition. He also will, necessarily, have developed models that go along with this intuition. And those models will fit his experience pretty well.
Now, give this jungle tribesperson a *front wheel drive* vehicle. The person will have a hell of a time. Things won't seem to work right, but it won't make any sense. Thing'll just seem all screwed up. His models will be useless. Learning about the new situation will be very difficult.
*IF* however, his model of the situation--from the beginning-- involved understanding the first car was rear-wheel drive, and that steering involved the front wheels, and if the person had this context while developing intuition and skills in the first place, then it will be much easier for him to extend his intuition to the front-wheel drive situation, where you have to steer in a different direction and do different things when you start to skid.
This is my long winded way to say that learning things about the physics of pool and about squirt and swerve, etc--for those of us who like to do it--just contribute for us to the development of our models that are inextricably linked to the development of our intuition. You can learn to play pool very well without making any overt effort to understand what's going on. [Stay inside the car if you want to] But all else being equal, you will be better off the more effort you put into understanding what is going on.
Physics "understanding" sometimes provides useful insight
How can physics analyses help my pool game?
The purpose of the physics analyses and discussions isn't always just to help make your game better. Often, it is just to help develop a better understanding of what is going on with the physics. Now, sometimes that improved understanding can help lead to insight and technique advice that can help at the table. Two good examples are the 30-degree rule and squirt, swerve, and throw effects. In both of these cases, the insight gained from the physics can go a long way to helping people develop and improve faster. Also, for some people, understanding can help improve confidence. Anytime one can back up intuition with understanding, one will usually have more confidence. That way, when one gets down in the stance, one can better focus on confidently executing the shot, without having to subconsciously doubt one's intuition.
Now, top players who have perfect intuition don't need to "understand" the 30-degree rule peace-sign technique, or how to achieve maximum throw, or the effects of inside vs. outside english, or rail cut-shot physics, because they instinctively know all of this stuff based on intuition and confidence built from years and years of successful practice and play. They "just know" where the balls will go on every shot. However, for everybody else, a little knowledge, understanding, and insight can help one improve faster and have more confidence.
Regardless, nothing beats endless hours of purposeful practice and successful experience. And even with knowledge and understanding, lots of practice time is still required to create the intuition and feel necessary to apply the knowledge and understanding. However, this doesn't mean that knowledge and understanding is a bad thing. For the many people who don't have the desire or ability to dedicate a large percentage of their life to table time, the knowledge and understanding can help them progress faster and be more efficient with their limited practice time. For the few people who are able to dedicate enormous amounts of time at the table, the knowledge and understanding aren't as important because they will develop an intuitive feel for everything as the Game teaches them, assuming they don't have extreme technique flaws and/or gross misunderstandings that limit or dramatically slow their development.
Another important point is that knowledge and understanding should not cause you to over think a shot. More importantly, one should definitely not be thinking during a shot. However, it can sometimes help a lot to think before a shot. Intuition and feel created by countless hours of purposeful practice and successful experience also helps.
Is there anything wrong with not understanding pool physics?
No, but sometimes it can cause misconceptions. Here are some classic examples where people sometimes have "physically incorrect" thinking but get the desired results anyway:
1.) "On a break shot, aim and hit the CB below center to squat the rock." To park the CB in the center of the table on a power break shot, the tip must actually hit the CB slightly above center; although, with elbow drop common with a power break, one must aim below center so the tip will end up hitting slightly above center (see BU break advice video (YouTube)).
2.) "To get good draw action on a straight shot, you need to elevate the cue." This is completely wrong, but it might help some people get more draw. One reason is that some people don't aim low enough on the CB, or they drop their elbow during the stroke into the ball. By elevating, they might be getting a lower effective tip position due to the downward angle of the cue (see cue elevation tip offset illustration (Image)), and the elevated stroke might change the timing of their elbow drop. For more info, see the cue elevation effects in "cue ball" section.
3.) "The type of stroke directly affects the action of a shot." In reality, all the CB "cares" about is the hit (cue speed, tip contact point, and the direction of the cue at contact with the CB). For more info, see the stroke "type" and "quality" in "stroke" section.
Technical knowledge is not enough
Can knowledge alone make somebody a great player?
Obviously not. Knowledge alone is not usually a deciding factor in a match between two really good players. They already know what they need to know to be top players (i.e., they already have lots of "knowledge"). Knowledge doesn't make somebody a good player, but it can dramatically speed up the learning process for many beginner to intermediate players. For example, if someone learns the 30-degree-rule peace-sign technique, he or she will immediately know where the CB will go for many shots. The alternative is to spend years building intuition to serve as a substitute for the knowledge. Most top players "just know" where the CB will go; but most beginner and intermediate players don't know, and they can benefit from the knowledge.
I remember when I first started using english many many years ago, every once in a while I would miss a shot even though I was sure I hit where I was aiming, and I would be shocked that I missed the shot. In hindsight, I think I missed many of those shots because I didn't fully understanding or have good intuition of the effects of squirt, swerve, and throw (especially throw, when playing on bar tables where the ball conditions were less than ideal), or I wasn't experienced enough to make better decisions concerning when and how english should be used. I personally think many players (at all levels) can benefit from improving their knowledge and understanding of the game.
Now, to get to the point where you can consistently run racks, you need to have lots of skills that can come only with lots of practice and play. To consistently run racks, one needs a repeatable stroke, great visualization and aiming, great speed control, good planning, good judgment, good mental focus, determination, etc! "Knowledge" and "understanding" alone do not provide these things.
For more info, visit billiards.colostate.edu
Pattern Play
See "position control section
See "strategy" section
See "strategy" section
For more info, visit billiards.colostate.edu
Physics of Pool and Billiards
Physics of Pool and Billiards
... resources to help learn pool physics.
Coriolis
Where can I find information on the billiards and pool physics work of the great mathematician and physicist Coriolis?
The following instructional articles summarize and illustrate many of Coriolis' original contributions from his 1835 book (which was written in French): (Downloads)
"Coriolis was brilliant ... but he didn't have a high-speed camera - Part I: introduction" (BD, July, 2005).
"Coriolis was brilliant ... but he didn't have a high-speed camera - Part II: high-speed video" (BD, August, 2005).
"Coriolis was brilliant ... but he didn't have a high-speed camera - Part III: cue ball paths are like satellite dishes" (BD, September, 2005).
"Coriolis was brilliant ... but he didn't have a high-speed camera - Part IV: maximum cue tip offset" (BD, October, 2005).
"Coriolis was brilliant ... but he didn't have a high-speed camera - Part V: masse shot aiming" (BD, November, 2005).
"Coriolis was brilliant ... but he didn't have a high-speed camera - Part VI: maximum rolling deflection" (BD, December, 2005).
Physical properties
What are approximate values for pool equipment physical properties?
ball diameter: 2.25 in
ball mass: 6 oz
ball mass moment of inertia: 2/5 m R2
ball-ball coefficient of friction (μ): 0.03-0.08
ball-ball coefficient of restitution (e): 0.92-0.98
ball-cloth coefficient of rolling resistance (μ): 0.005 - 0.015
ball-cloth coefficient of sliding friction (μ): 0.15-0.4 (typical value: 0.2)
ball-cloth spin deceleration rate: 5-15 rad/sec2
ball-rail coefficient of restitution (e): 0.6-0.9
ball-table coefficient of restitution (e): 0.5
cue-tip-ball coefficient of friction (μ): 0.6
cue-tip-ball coefficient of restitution (e): 0.71-0.75 (leather tip), 0.81-0.87 (phenolic tip)
Here are some typical values for various shot "speeds" in miles per hour (mph) and feet per second (fps):
touch: 1.5 mph = 2.2 fps
slow: 3 mph = 4.4 fps
medium-soft: 5 mph = 7.3 fps
medium: 7 mph = 10 fps
medium-fast: 8 mph = 12 fps
fast: 12 mph = 18 fps
power: 15-20 mph = 22-29 fps
powerful break: 25-30 mph = 36-44 fps
Resources
Where can I find information and resources on pool and billiards physics?
The billiards and pool physics resources page (external web-link) has lists of references and links to many general interest and technical articles, books, and websites providing excellent resources on this topic.
Simulator
How does one go about creating a pool simulator?
The physics complexities are dealt with in many good resources. An open-source graphics simulator project called FooBilliard, with source code, is available here (external web-link). An open source project dealing with pool physics can be found here (external web-link): http://billiards2.stanford.edu/FastFiz/main.html.
Virtual Pool is a good commercially available pool simulator. A free demo version can be found on their website here (external web-link)
from John Novak:
Virtual Pool 3 DL is as close to the real thing as you can get.. When I first heard about it over 10 years ago I looked at it as just a computer game. But, it is not. Everything you can do on a real table can be simulated in this game. Cue butt angle, squirt, swerve, etc. Check it out the graphics are amazing... You can even adjust the table cloth speed, rail speed, pocket size and pocket cut... www.celeris.com use the promo code vp3pc1104 and you can purchase it for about 10 bucks, best money you ever spent...This can also be played on line against people all over the world...Give it a try.
... resources to help learn pool physics.
Coriolis
Where can I find information on the billiards and pool physics work of the great mathematician and physicist Coriolis?
The following instructional articles summarize and illustrate many of Coriolis' original contributions from his 1835 book (which was written in French): (Downloads)
"Coriolis was brilliant ... but he didn't have a high-speed camera - Part I: introduction" (BD, July, 2005).
"Coriolis was brilliant ... but he didn't have a high-speed camera - Part II: high-speed video" (BD, August, 2005).
"Coriolis was brilliant ... but he didn't have a high-speed camera - Part III: cue ball paths are like satellite dishes" (BD, September, 2005).
"Coriolis was brilliant ... but he didn't have a high-speed camera - Part IV: maximum cue tip offset" (BD, October, 2005).
"Coriolis was brilliant ... but he didn't have a high-speed camera - Part V: masse shot aiming" (BD, November, 2005).
"Coriolis was brilliant ... but he didn't have a high-speed camera - Part VI: maximum rolling deflection" (BD, December, 2005).
Physical properties
What are approximate values for pool equipment physical properties?
ball diameter: 2.25 in
ball mass: 6 oz
ball mass moment of inertia: 2/5 m R2
ball-ball coefficient of friction (μ): 0.03-0.08
ball-ball coefficient of restitution (e): 0.92-0.98
ball-cloth coefficient of rolling resistance (μ): 0.005 - 0.015
ball-cloth coefficient of sliding friction (μ): 0.15-0.4 (typical value: 0.2)
ball-cloth spin deceleration rate: 5-15 rad/sec2
ball-rail coefficient of restitution (e): 0.6-0.9
ball-table coefficient of restitution (e): 0.5
cue-tip-ball coefficient of friction (μ): 0.6
cue-tip-ball coefficient of restitution (e): 0.71-0.75 (leather tip), 0.81-0.87 (phenolic tip)
Here are some typical values for various shot "speeds" in miles per hour (mph) and feet per second (fps):
touch: 1.5 mph = 2.2 fps
slow: 3 mph = 4.4 fps
medium-soft: 5 mph = 7.3 fps
medium: 7 mph = 10 fps
medium-fast: 8 mph = 12 fps
fast: 12 mph = 18 fps
power: 15-20 mph = 22-29 fps
powerful break: 25-30 mph = 36-44 fps
Resources
Where can I find information and resources on pool and billiards physics?
The billiards and pool physics resources page (external web-link) has lists of references and links to many general interest and technical articles, books, and websites providing excellent resources on this topic.
Simulator
How does one go about creating a pool simulator?
The physics complexities are dealt with in many good resources. An open-source graphics simulator project called FooBilliard, with source code, is available here (external web-link). An open source project dealing with pool physics can be found here (external web-link): http://billiards2.stanford.edu/FastFiz/main.html.
Virtual Pool is a good commercially available pool simulator. A free demo version can be found on their website here (external web-link)
from John Novak:
Virtual Pool 3 DL is as close to the real thing as you can get.. When I first heard about it over 10 years ago I looked at it as just a computer game. But, it is not. Everything you can do on a real table can be simulated in this game. Cue butt angle, squirt, swerve, etc. Check it out the graphics are amazing... You can even adjust the table cloth speed, rail speed, pocket size and pocket cut... www.celeris.com use the promo code vp3pc1104 and you can purchase it for about 10 bucks, best money you ever spent...This can also be played on line against people all over the world...Give it a try.
For more info, visit billiards.colostate.edu
Player Ratings
Player Ratings in Pool and Billiards
... how to rate, compare, handicap, and track progress of pool players in tournaments and leagues.
Various drills can also be used to rate and track improvement of players.
Accu-Stats TPA
How does Accu-Stats' player rating system work?
The Tournament Performance Average (TPA) can be used to measure a player's performance in a match or tournament. It is a single number (like a batting average) based on the following formula:
TPA = (# of Balls Made) / (# of Balls Made + # of Errors)
Errors are any of the following:
A-D rating system
How do you interpret the letter ratings (A-D) sometimes used to refer to player ability?
Interpretations of the A-D ratings can vary in different regions and among different league/tournament systems. Also, sometimes different labels are used (e.g., "AAA, AA, A, B, C" or "Masters, AA, A, B, C, D" or "Open A B C D" or "A+, A, A-, B+, ... , D" instead of "A B C D"). The 9-ball rating drill can be used to assess a player's offensive ability. The drill assigns the letter designation (A-D) based on performance. A better system for determining and monitoring a player's level of ability is the Billiard University (BU) rating system. It assesses a wide range of pool skills and provides a numeric and descriptive rating. The BU rating comparison chart (Download) shows how the BU rating correlates to other commonly used rating and handicapping systems, including the A-D system.
Here's a simple interpretation of the A-D scale from the online glossary: (Download)
A: a good player capable of running most racks and/or playing lock-up safeties.
B: a decent player capable of running racks and playing effective safeties periodically.
C: an average player who doesn’t run racks very often and doesn’t have much of a safety game.
D: a novice player who makes many mistakes, can’t run even an easy rack, and never even considers playing safe.
Here's an alternative and more-detailed interpretation of the A-D scale from Capelle's "Play Your Best Pool" (p.386):
D: A beginner or someone who plays so infrequently that their game remains in the beginner category.
C-: A below average player - this denotes a player with some recognizable skills who has definitely risen from the ranks of beginners. This is the first major milestone.
C: An average player - describes a large section of pool enthusiasts with experience whose games perhaps have leveled off, or that only play occasionally.
C+: Above average player - this group plays a very acceptable game of pool. They tend to dominate their level of competition.
B-: This is perhaps the biggest hurdle, as a good number of players peak at the C+ level. A B- is a good player who is quite capable of running a rack of Eight Ball or Nine Ball. However, they usually lack consistency.
B: A solid, advanced player - these players can run out fairly regularly, but lack a little consistency.
B+: Players at this level are often mistaken for lower level A players when they are playing well because they play a very tough, well-rounded game. They can run out from nearly anywhere at anytime.
A-: Another big jump is required to break through to the "A" level. This group of players could be classified as semi-pros or top amateurs. They are very skilled in nearly all facets of the game. They run out easily and very often.
A: A professional quality player who can compete with and occasionally beat all but the best players. Very skilled, solid, and consistent. Runs multiple racks quite often. Tough to beat.
A+: Touring Pro - the best. Skilled in every area of the game. Breaks and runs out multiple racks regularly. Definitely in a class by themselves.
from Tom_In_Cincy:
9-Ball Tournament race to 7
(paraphrased from Dec.1997 "All About Pool" magazine article by Bob Cambell)
Handicap rankings
D- Player
will not run a rack
average run is about 3 balls
with ball in hand, will get out from the 7, one out of 3 times
rarely plays a successful safe
C-Player
will probably run one rack, but usually not more than one rack in a typical race to 7
avg. run is 3 to 5 balls
with ball in hand, will get out from the 7, two out of 3 times
mixed results when playing safe
inning ends due to botched position, missed shot or attempting a safe.
B-Player
Able to run 1 to 3 racks
avg. run is 5-7 balls
with ball in hand will get out form the 5, 2 out of 3 times
most of the time a "B" player will play a "safety" which maybe hit easily 2 out of 3 times
a typical inning will end with a missed shot, a fair safety, or a won game
A-Player
will string 2 to 3 racks
avg. ball run, 7-9
with ball in hand, will be out from the 3 ball, 2 out of 3 times
typical inning will end with a well executed safety or a win.
OPEN-Players
average 8+ balls
string racks together more than once in a match
is a threat to run out from every ball, from every position, every inning
typical inning will end in excellent safety or win
Mr. Cambell continues this article with a handicap chart for the 4 levels of each type of player. The chart would look like this;
Lowest handicap is D4, then D3, then D2 and so on until the highest would be OPEN 1
from Jude Rosenstock:
D - Will appear as though they are stumbling through the rack. Their occasional run-outs will either consist of very easy layouts (which they will nearly mess-up), a few lucky shots and/or unintentional position.
C - Greater sense of cue control and much more of a deliberate appearance than a D. They will undoubtedly run out with BIH with 3 or 4 left and will make it look routine but are suspect beyond that.
B - Really the beginning of the run out player. If they make a ball on the break and get position on the 1 ball, they should have a reasonable expectation to get out. Any cluster or unusual position play will diminish their chances significantly. Usually, B players possess unusual strength in either pocketing, strategy or position play. Rarely two of three, never all three. Their creativity is usually limited at this level but you may begin to see glimpses of what's to come.
A - Definitely categorized as a run out player. They are supposed to capitalize on most mistakes. Greater attention is paid to more subtle details. Expect a consistent and strong break and strength in multiple attributes (pocketing, defense, position play, creativity). Most noticeable among players at this level and above is an aura of confidence.
Open & Above is very similar to what you see described in A only more refined. You will see advanced to expert break, pocketing, defense, position play and creativity. Low level opens might be advanced in all of these categories while world class professionals might be experts in most or all. All of these players are expected to run out with any routine opportunity. Any run-stopper situation (clusters, blocked position routes) is expected to be handled in such a way to still give the shooter an expectation of winning.
APA handicapping system
How does the APA Equalizer Handicapping system work?
See the following official description from APA that doesn't include much detail:
APA Equalizer Handicap System (external web-link)
Here's an unofficial document that provides more details:
APA handicapping system description posted on rec.sports.billiards in 2003 (external file-link)
Here's a video that provide instructions on how to keep score during APA 8-ball matches:
8-Ball Scorekeeping with the APA 3-Point Scoring System (YouTube)
How do APA ratings differ or compare to the A-D system?
Actual levels of ability corresponding to different player ratings can vary significantly among different leagues and different regions. There is no direct correlation between an APA rating and actual level of play. The ratings are relative only to other players in the league. However, in a competitive league with a wide range of abilities, the APA ratings will generally correlate with traditional A-D player ratings along the lines summarized by Koop below.
from Koop:
SL-3 or below: D+ Player or below
SL-4: D+ to C- Player
SL-5: C- to C Player
SL-6: C+ to B- Player
SL-7: B
SL-8: B+ to A-
SL-9: A to Open
Arizona 1-10 rating system
How does the 1-10 rating system developed in Arizona work and compare to other ratings?
Here's how the Arizona Ratings compare to the "National Scale:"
AZ Nat. Description
10-2 A+ Top professional. World class player. Capable of winning major professional tournaments. Almost always finishes in the money in any tournament entered.
10-1 A Professional, or player possessing professional skills. Capable of winning local open tournaments. Usually finishes in the money in regional tournaments.
10 A- Semi-pro, or player possessing professional skills. Capable of winning or placing high in the money in local open tournaments.
9 B+ Advanced. Very good position play, strategy and consistency. Top league player. Consistent competitor in local open tournaments.
8 B Advanced. Good position play, strategy and consistency. Good league player. Competitive in local open tournaments.
7 B- Intermediate. Fair amount of knowledge and experience, but inconsistent in execution. Average league player.
6 C+ Intermediate. Has learned quite a few shots, but has a lot to learn about position play and strategy. Inconsistent.
5 C Novice. Has a grasp of the fundamentals, but does not know much about the physics of the game. Lower-level league player.
4 C- Novice. Very basic knowledge of the fundamentals. Knows almost nothing about position play. Lowest-level tournament player.
3 D+ Novice. Knows little about the fundamentals, but might know a couple of shots. Average social player.
2 D Novice. May not know anything about the fundamentals or making shots. Non-competitive.
1 D- Novice. Knows nothing about the game except maybe a few rules of play.
A better system for determining and monitoring a player's level of ability is the Billiard University (BU) rating system. It assesses a wide range of pool skills and provides a numeric and descriptive rating. The BU rating comparison chart (Download) shows how the BU rating correlates to other commonly used rating and handicapping systems, including the Arizona 1-10 system.
Billiard University (BU) playing-ability rating system
How does the Billiard University (BU) rating system work?
The two Billiard University (BU) playing ability exams (external web-link) ("Exam I - Fundamentals" and "Exam II - Skills") provide an accurate assessment and rating of overall pool-playing ability. The following video provides an overview of the BU assessment and rating process:
... how to rate, compare, handicap, and track progress of pool players in tournaments and leagues.
Various drills can also be used to rate and track improvement of players.
Accu-Stats TPA
How does Accu-Stats' player rating system work?
The Tournament Performance Average (TPA) can be used to measure a player's performance in a match or tournament. It is a single number (like a batting average) based on the following formula:
TPA = (# of Balls Made) / (# of Balls Made + # of Errors)
Errors are any of the following:
- missing a shot
- getting out of position
- missing a kick
- scratching on the break
- failing to execute a safety successfully
A-D rating system
How do you interpret the letter ratings (A-D) sometimes used to refer to player ability?
Interpretations of the A-D ratings can vary in different regions and among different league/tournament systems. Also, sometimes different labels are used (e.g., "AAA, AA, A, B, C" or "Masters, AA, A, B, C, D" or "Open A B C D" or "A+, A, A-, B+, ... , D" instead of "A B C D"). The 9-ball rating drill can be used to assess a player's offensive ability. The drill assigns the letter designation (A-D) based on performance. A better system for determining and monitoring a player's level of ability is the Billiard University (BU) rating system. It assesses a wide range of pool skills and provides a numeric and descriptive rating. The BU rating comparison chart (Download) shows how the BU rating correlates to other commonly used rating and handicapping systems, including the A-D system.
Here's a simple interpretation of the A-D scale from the online glossary: (Download)
A: a good player capable of running most racks and/or playing lock-up safeties.
B: a decent player capable of running racks and playing effective safeties periodically.
C: an average player who doesn’t run racks very often and doesn’t have much of a safety game.
D: a novice player who makes many mistakes, can’t run even an easy rack, and never even considers playing safe.
Here's an alternative and more-detailed interpretation of the A-D scale from Capelle's "Play Your Best Pool" (p.386):
D: A beginner or someone who plays so infrequently that their game remains in the beginner category.
C-: A below average player - this denotes a player with some recognizable skills who has definitely risen from the ranks of beginners. This is the first major milestone.
C: An average player - describes a large section of pool enthusiasts with experience whose games perhaps have leveled off, or that only play occasionally.
C+: Above average player - this group plays a very acceptable game of pool. They tend to dominate their level of competition.
B-: This is perhaps the biggest hurdle, as a good number of players peak at the C+ level. A B- is a good player who is quite capable of running a rack of Eight Ball or Nine Ball. However, they usually lack consistency.
B: A solid, advanced player - these players can run out fairly regularly, but lack a little consistency.
B+: Players at this level are often mistaken for lower level A players when they are playing well because they play a very tough, well-rounded game. They can run out from nearly anywhere at anytime.
A-: Another big jump is required to break through to the "A" level. This group of players could be classified as semi-pros or top amateurs. They are very skilled in nearly all facets of the game. They run out easily and very often.
A: A professional quality player who can compete with and occasionally beat all but the best players. Very skilled, solid, and consistent. Runs multiple racks quite often. Tough to beat.
A+: Touring Pro - the best. Skilled in every area of the game. Breaks and runs out multiple racks regularly. Definitely in a class by themselves.
from Tom_In_Cincy:
9-Ball Tournament race to 7
(paraphrased from Dec.1997 "All About Pool" magazine article by Bob Cambell)
Handicap rankings
D- Player
will not run a rack
average run is about 3 balls
with ball in hand, will get out from the 7, one out of 3 times
rarely plays a successful safe
C-Player
will probably run one rack, but usually not more than one rack in a typical race to 7
avg. run is 3 to 5 balls
with ball in hand, will get out from the 7, two out of 3 times
mixed results when playing safe
inning ends due to botched position, missed shot or attempting a safe.
B-Player
Able to run 1 to 3 racks
avg. run is 5-7 balls
with ball in hand will get out form the 5, 2 out of 3 times
most of the time a "B" player will play a "safety" which maybe hit easily 2 out of 3 times
a typical inning will end with a missed shot, a fair safety, or a won game
A-Player
will string 2 to 3 racks
avg. ball run, 7-9
with ball in hand, will be out from the 3 ball, 2 out of 3 times
typical inning will end with a well executed safety or a win.
OPEN-Players
average 8+ balls
string racks together more than once in a match
is a threat to run out from every ball, from every position, every inning
typical inning will end in excellent safety or win
Mr. Cambell continues this article with a handicap chart for the 4 levels of each type of player. The chart would look like this;
Lowest handicap is D4, then D3, then D2 and so on until the highest would be OPEN 1
from Jude Rosenstock:
D - Will appear as though they are stumbling through the rack. Their occasional run-outs will either consist of very easy layouts (which they will nearly mess-up), a few lucky shots and/or unintentional position.
C - Greater sense of cue control and much more of a deliberate appearance than a D. They will undoubtedly run out with BIH with 3 or 4 left and will make it look routine but are suspect beyond that.
B - Really the beginning of the run out player. If they make a ball on the break and get position on the 1 ball, they should have a reasonable expectation to get out. Any cluster or unusual position play will diminish their chances significantly. Usually, B players possess unusual strength in either pocketing, strategy or position play. Rarely two of three, never all three. Their creativity is usually limited at this level but you may begin to see glimpses of what's to come.
A - Definitely categorized as a run out player. They are supposed to capitalize on most mistakes. Greater attention is paid to more subtle details. Expect a consistent and strong break and strength in multiple attributes (pocketing, defense, position play, creativity). Most noticeable among players at this level and above is an aura of confidence.
Open & Above is very similar to what you see described in A only more refined. You will see advanced to expert break, pocketing, defense, position play and creativity. Low level opens might be advanced in all of these categories while world class professionals might be experts in most or all. All of these players are expected to run out with any routine opportunity. Any run-stopper situation (clusters, blocked position routes) is expected to be handled in such a way to still give the shooter an expectation of winning.
APA handicapping system
How does the APA Equalizer Handicapping system work?
See the following official description from APA that doesn't include much detail:
APA Equalizer Handicap System (external web-link)
Here's an unofficial document that provides more details:
APA handicapping system description posted on rec.sports.billiards in 2003 (external file-link)
Here's a video that provide instructions on how to keep score during APA 8-ball matches:
8-Ball Scorekeeping with the APA 3-Point Scoring System (YouTube)
How do APA ratings differ or compare to the A-D system?
Actual levels of ability corresponding to different player ratings can vary significantly among different leagues and different regions. There is no direct correlation between an APA rating and actual level of play. The ratings are relative only to other players in the league. However, in a competitive league with a wide range of abilities, the APA ratings will generally correlate with traditional A-D player ratings along the lines summarized by Koop below.
from Koop:
SL-3 or below: D+ Player or below
SL-4: D+ to C- Player
SL-5: C- to C Player
SL-6: C+ to B- Player
SL-7: B
SL-8: B+ to A-
SL-9: A to Open
Arizona 1-10 rating system
How does the 1-10 rating system developed in Arizona work and compare to other ratings?
Here's how the Arizona Ratings compare to the "National Scale:"
AZ Nat. Description
10-2 A+ Top professional. World class player. Capable of winning major professional tournaments. Almost always finishes in the money in any tournament entered.
10-1 A Professional, or player possessing professional skills. Capable of winning local open tournaments. Usually finishes in the money in regional tournaments.
10 A- Semi-pro, or player possessing professional skills. Capable of winning or placing high in the money in local open tournaments.
9 B+ Advanced. Very good position play, strategy and consistency. Top league player. Consistent competitor in local open tournaments.
8 B Advanced. Good position play, strategy and consistency. Good league player. Competitive in local open tournaments.
7 B- Intermediate. Fair amount of knowledge and experience, but inconsistent in execution. Average league player.
6 C+ Intermediate. Has learned quite a few shots, but has a lot to learn about position play and strategy. Inconsistent.
5 C Novice. Has a grasp of the fundamentals, but does not know much about the physics of the game. Lower-level league player.
4 C- Novice. Very basic knowledge of the fundamentals. Knows almost nothing about position play. Lowest-level tournament player.
3 D+ Novice. Knows little about the fundamentals, but might know a couple of shots. Average social player.
2 D Novice. May not know anything about the fundamentals or making shots. Non-competitive.
1 D- Novice. Knows nothing about the game except maybe a few rules of play.
A better system for determining and monitoring a player's level of ability is the Billiard University (BU) rating system. It assesses a wide range of pool skills and provides a numeric and descriptive rating. The BU rating comparison chart (Download) shows how the BU rating correlates to other commonly used rating and handicapping systems, including the Arizona 1-10 system.
Billiard University (BU) playing-ability rating system
How does the Billiard University (BU) rating system work?
The two Billiard University (BU) playing ability exams (external web-link) ("Exam I - Fundamentals" and "Exam II - Skills") provide an accurate assessment and rating of overall pool-playing ability. The following video provides an overview of the BU assessment and rating process:
The total score of the two exams indicates your player rating according to the BU ratings table (Download), which also compares BU ratings to other traditional rating and handicapping systems.
Here's an overview of both BU Exams:
Exam overview part 1(YouTube)
Exam overview part 2(YouTube)
Much more information can be found on the Billiard University (BU) website. (external web-link)
Fargo rating and handicapping system
How does the Fargo rating and handicapping system work?
The Fargo rating and handicapping system (external web-link), which is different from the Fargo rating drill, is a statistics-based system for tracking player abilities in an 8-ball league system.
800 - A top world-class 8-ball player such as Corey Deuel, Shane Van Boening, Darren Appleton, or Thorsten Hohmann
700 - A top regional 8-ball player in the US – a threat to cash in the Master’s Division at the BCA/VNEA Championships – a threat to run six in a row if the break is working
600 - Likely to cash in the BCA Open Division but probably won’t make it to the top 32. – may get moved to Master’s Division and then flounder – has run three-in-a-row multiple times and maybe four-in-a row a time or two
500 - A good local league player. Runs out first time at the table in about 10% of the games
400 - Runs out first time at the table in about 1% of the games – once or twice a league season
300 - A beginner league player
200 - absolute beginner- may miscue frequently
Here's how Fargo ratings compare to those of other systems:
NPL - Fargo
135 - 700
105 - 600
75 - 500
45 - 400
15 - 300
APA Fargo
7 - >560
6 - 500-560
5 - 425-500
4 - 350-425
3 - <350
Minnesota - M8 Master/Advanced - Fargo
Master - >125 - >630
AA - 100-125 - 575-630
A - 75-100 - 500-575
B - 50-75 - 425-500
C - <50 - <425
Additional comparisons, including how Fargo ratings correlate with Billiard University (BU) ratings, can be found in the BU rating comparison chart. (Download)
R15-ball-rotation player-rating drill
from BeiberLvr (in AZB post: (external forum-link)
1. Rack all 15 balls. Any order, but the 1 must be at the top, and the 15 in the middle.
2. Break
3. Player can take as many ball in hands each rack until all balls have been made.
4. Player does NOT have to take ball in hand immediately after the break.
5. Player can use a ball in hand at any point during the rack.
6. Play a total of 10 racks.
7. Player's score is determined by the total # of ball in hands taken after all 10 racks are completed.
8. Slop counts.
9. Player must continue shooting even if the 15 ball drops early.
Summary of what is a foul/BIH penalty:
- CB scratch (1 foul)
- OB off table (1 foul, and ball gets spotted)
- Missed shot (1 foul)
- Missed shot and then scratch (1 foul)
- Lowest ball not hit first (2 fouls)
- Lowest ball not hit first and then scratch (2 fouls)
- Make a ball and scratch (1 foul). If a legal hit is made, but the ball that dropped wasn't the lowest ball, it gets spotted. If the lowest ball was made, it stays down.
0-20 Pro
21-30 A
31-40 B
41-60 C
61-70 D
70+ BANGER
from dr_dave (in AZB post): (external forum-link)
I think your score ranges are a little high. Based on what I've seen so far, I would suggest the following:
0-20 Pro
21-35 A
36-50 B
51-65 C
66-80 D
81+ BANGER
Here are some example racks with good scores: Dr. Dave practicing 15-ball rotation (YouTube).
Hopkins Q Skill Challenge Ratings
How does the Hopkins Q Skill Challenge rating system work?
The Hopkins Q Skill Challenge is described in detail here. Here are the original ranking divisions for the different score ranges, along with an estimated correspondence with the traditional A-D lettering system:
Here's an overview of both BU Exams:
Exam overview part 1(YouTube)
Exam overview part 2(YouTube)
Much more information can be found on the Billiard University (BU) website. (external web-link)
Fargo rating and handicapping system
How does the Fargo rating and handicapping system work?
The Fargo rating and handicapping system (external web-link), which is different from the Fargo rating drill, is a statistics-based system for tracking player abilities in an 8-ball league system.
800 - A top world-class 8-ball player such as Corey Deuel, Shane Van Boening, Darren Appleton, or Thorsten Hohmann
700 - A top regional 8-ball player in the US – a threat to cash in the Master’s Division at the BCA/VNEA Championships – a threat to run six in a row if the break is working
600 - Likely to cash in the BCA Open Division but probably won’t make it to the top 32. – may get moved to Master’s Division and then flounder – has run three-in-a-row multiple times and maybe four-in-a row a time or two
500 - A good local league player. Runs out first time at the table in about 10% of the games
400 - Runs out first time at the table in about 1% of the games – once or twice a league season
300 - A beginner league player
200 - absolute beginner- may miscue frequently
Here's how Fargo ratings compare to those of other systems:
NPL - Fargo
135 - 700
105 - 600
75 - 500
45 - 400
15 - 300
APA Fargo
7 - >560
6 - 500-560
5 - 425-500
4 - 350-425
3 - <350
Minnesota - M8 Master/Advanced - Fargo
Master - >125 - >630
AA - 100-125 - 575-630
A - 75-100 - 500-575
B - 50-75 - 425-500
C - <50 - <425
Additional comparisons, including how Fargo ratings correlate with Billiard University (BU) ratings, can be found in the BU rating comparison chart. (Download)
R15-ball-rotation player-rating drill
from BeiberLvr (in AZB post: (external forum-link)
1. Rack all 15 balls. Any order, but the 1 must be at the top, and the 15 in the middle.
2. Break
3. Player can take as many ball in hands each rack until all balls have been made.
4. Player does NOT have to take ball in hand immediately after the break.
5. Player can use a ball in hand at any point during the rack.
6. Play a total of 10 racks.
7. Player's score is determined by the total # of ball in hands taken after all 10 racks are completed.
8. Slop counts.
9. Player must continue shooting even if the 15 ball drops early.
Summary of what is a foul/BIH penalty:
- CB scratch (1 foul)
- OB off table (1 foul, and ball gets spotted)
- Missed shot (1 foul)
- Missed shot and then scratch (1 foul)
- Lowest ball not hit first (2 fouls)
- Lowest ball not hit first and then scratch (2 fouls)
- Make a ball and scratch (1 foul). If a legal hit is made, but the ball that dropped wasn't the lowest ball, it gets spotted. If the lowest ball was made, it stays down.
0-20 Pro
21-30 A
31-40 B
41-60 C
61-70 D
70+ BANGER
from dr_dave (in AZB post): (external forum-link)
I think your score ranges are a little high. Based on what I've seen so far, I would suggest the following:
0-20 Pro
21-35 A
36-50 B
51-65 C
66-80 D
81+ BANGER
Here are some example racks with good scores: Dr. Dave practicing 15-ball rotation (YouTube).
Hopkins Q Skill Challenge Ratings
How does the Hopkins Q Skill Challenge rating system work?
The Hopkins Q Skill Challenge is described in detail here. Here are the original ranking divisions for the different score ranges, along with an estimated correspondence with the traditional A-D lettering system:
A better system for determining and monitoring a player's level of ability is the Billiard University (BU) rating system. It assesses a wide range of pool skills and provides a numeric and descriptive rating. The BU rating comparison chart (Download) shows how the BU rating correlates to other commonly used rating and handicapping systems.
National Pool League (NPL) rating system
How does the NPL rating system work?
This basic system was developed by Bob Jewett and is described here:
www.sfbilliards.com/NPL_info.txt (external text-html)
Playing Ability Test (PAT)
What is PAT?
The Playing Ability Test (PAT) is a multi-level drill-based player rating examination developed in Europe. It is described here: www.pat-billiard.com (external web-link)
An alternative system is the Billiard University (BU) rating system in "rating" section. It assesses a wide range of pool skills and provides a numeric and descriptive rating. The BU rating comparison chart (Download) shows how the BU rating correlates to other commonly used rating and handicapping systems.
"Playing the ghost" rating drills
Is there a drill that can be used to measure my level of play?
Many "playing the ghost" player rating drills have been developed and used over the years. The phrase "playing the ghost" implies that you are playing by yourself against a fictitious opponent (the "ghost") who never misses. A ghost drill consists of racking a certain number of balls (e.g., 7, 9, 10, 15), breaking, taking ball in hand after the break, and attempting to run out. If you run out, you have beaten the "ghost." You can keep score by keeping track of your rack winning percentage or by totaling the total number of balls pocketed before missing in a given number of racks (e.g., 10).
"Playing the ghost" drills are useful to rate your level of play and track improvement over time. They also provide practice with offensive skills (shot making, position play, handling of clusters and problem balls, and breaking). Safety play, a very important part of the game, is not addressed in "playing the ghost" drills. Example "playing the ghost" drills and rating systems are the 9-ball rating drill (Download) (which provides a 1-10 and A-D rating) and the 10-ball version described below. The 15-ball-rotation rating drill in "rating" section provides a similar way to rate performance. The 10-ball-ghost version is the most recommended and seems to provide fairly accurate player ratings.
The "playing the ghost" drills do not test a complete range of pool skills, but they do a decent job at rating a person's primary offensive skills. However, the scores can vary a lot from one session to the next, and there can be a fair amount of luck (both good and bad) involved concerning ball clustering and weird run-out patterns; but if you do a bunch of sessions and throw out the low and high scores, the median (middle) score provides a fairly accurate measure of one's offensive ability.
A better system for determining and monitoring a player's level of ability is the Billiard University (BU) rating system. It assesses a wide range of pool skills and provides a numeric and descriptive rating. The BU rating comparison chart (Download) shows how the BU rating correlates to other commonly used rating and handicapping systems.
More rating drills can be found under drills here. (external web-link)
10-ball ghost player-rating drill:
The following drill offers a simple and fast way to obtain an approximate player rating (based on offensive skills). However, 10 racks of 10-ball is not enough to get a representative score. There is too much variability from one rack to the next, and there is a luck factor involved. A better approach is to do 30 racks and drop the 10 highest and 10 lowest scores. This would give a more representative score and rating.
The Billiard University (BU) rating system probably provide a better measure of overall playing ability because it tests all important pool skills, and in a more methodical, thorough, and consistent way.
from Eric.:
Joe Tucker has a thing he uses that proves to be pretty accurate. It goes like this:
Rack up some 10 ball. Break from anywhere. After the break, take ball in hand and run out, in rotation (1, 2, 3, etc...) All balls made on the break count. Any balls made on a scratch are spotted. [Added by dr_dave: A scratch incurs a 2-point penalty.] Once you miss, the rack is over. You should shoot 10 racks and count the total balls made for each rack. After 10 racks, take your total and compare it to this chart:
[added by dr_dave: <30 D]
30-35 D+
36-40 C
41-45 C+
46-50 B
51-55 B+
56-60 A
61-65 A+
66-70 A++
71-up Pro
I'm not sure if it matters what size table. I like this rating system because it takes a lot into account as far as player ability i.e. shotmaking, position play, cluster breaking, break skill. It makes no difference if you play 10 ball or not, the results are very close to reality.
Pool Quotient (PQ) progressive-drill ability test
Is there a set of drills I can use to get a good measure of my overall ability?
The Pool Quotient (PQ) ability test, based on progressive practice drills is a good tool to measure ability and track improvement over time. Here it is: PQ Ability Test (Download). Other self-assessment info can be found here (external web-link).
A more-complete system for determining and monitoring a player's level of ability is the Billiard University (BU) rating system. It assesses a wide range of pool skills and provides a numeric and descriptive rating. The BU rating comparison chart (Download) shows how the BU rating correlates to other commonly used rating and handicapping systems.
National Pool League (NPL) rating system
How does the NPL rating system work?
This basic system was developed by Bob Jewett and is described here:
www.sfbilliards.com/NPL_info.txt (external text-html)
Playing Ability Test (PAT)
What is PAT?
The Playing Ability Test (PAT) is a multi-level drill-based player rating examination developed in Europe. It is described here: www.pat-billiard.com (external web-link)
An alternative system is the Billiard University (BU) rating system in "rating" section. It assesses a wide range of pool skills and provides a numeric and descriptive rating. The BU rating comparison chart (Download) shows how the BU rating correlates to other commonly used rating and handicapping systems.
"Playing the ghost" rating drills
Is there a drill that can be used to measure my level of play?
Many "playing the ghost" player rating drills have been developed and used over the years. The phrase "playing the ghost" implies that you are playing by yourself against a fictitious opponent (the "ghost") who never misses. A ghost drill consists of racking a certain number of balls (e.g., 7, 9, 10, 15), breaking, taking ball in hand after the break, and attempting to run out. If you run out, you have beaten the "ghost." You can keep score by keeping track of your rack winning percentage or by totaling the total number of balls pocketed before missing in a given number of racks (e.g., 10).
"Playing the ghost" drills are useful to rate your level of play and track improvement over time. They also provide practice with offensive skills (shot making, position play, handling of clusters and problem balls, and breaking). Safety play, a very important part of the game, is not addressed in "playing the ghost" drills. Example "playing the ghost" drills and rating systems are the 9-ball rating drill (Download) (which provides a 1-10 and A-D rating) and the 10-ball version described below. The 15-ball-rotation rating drill in "rating" section provides a similar way to rate performance. The 10-ball-ghost version is the most recommended and seems to provide fairly accurate player ratings.
The "playing the ghost" drills do not test a complete range of pool skills, but they do a decent job at rating a person's primary offensive skills. However, the scores can vary a lot from one session to the next, and there can be a fair amount of luck (both good and bad) involved concerning ball clustering and weird run-out patterns; but if you do a bunch of sessions and throw out the low and high scores, the median (middle) score provides a fairly accurate measure of one's offensive ability.
A better system for determining and monitoring a player's level of ability is the Billiard University (BU) rating system. It assesses a wide range of pool skills and provides a numeric and descriptive rating. The BU rating comparison chart (Download) shows how the BU rating correlates to other commonly used rating and handicapping systems.
More rating drills can be found under drills here. (external web-link)
10-ball ghost player-rating drill:
The following drill offers a simple and fast way to obtain an approximate player rating (based on offensive skills). However, 10 racks of 10-ball is not enough to get a representative score. There is too much variability from one rack to the next, and there is a luck factor involved. A better approach is to do 30 racks and drop the 10 highest and 10 lowest scores. This would give a more representative score and rating.
The Billiard University (BU) rating system probably provide a better measure of overall playing ability because it tests all important pool skills, and in a more methodical, thorough, and consistent way.
from Eric.:
Joe Tucker has a thing he uses that proves to be pretty accurate. It goes like this:
Rack up some 10 ball. Break from anywhere. After the break, take ball in hand and run out, in rotation (1, 2, 3, etc...) All balls made on the break count. Any balls made on a scratch are spotted. [Added by dr_dave: A scratch incurs a 2-point penalty.] Once you miss, the rack is over. You should shoot 10 racks and count the total balls made for each rack. After 10 racks, take your total and compare it to this chart:
[added by dr_dave: <30 D]
30-35 D+
36-40 C
41-45 C+
46-50 B
51-55 B+
56-60 A
61-65 A+
66-70 A++
71-up Pro
I'm not sure if it matters what size table. I like this rating system because it takes a lot into account as far as player ability i.e. shotmaking, position play, cluster breaking, break skill. It makes no difference if you play 10 ball or not, the results are very close to reality.
Pool Quotient (PQ) progressive-drill ability test
Is there a set of drills I can use to get a good measure of my overall ability?
The Pool Quotient (PQ) ability test, based on progressive practice drills is a good tool to measure ability and track improvement over time. Here it is: PQ Ability Test (Download). Other self-assessment info can be found here (external web-link).
A more-complete system for determining and monitoring a player's level of ability is the Billiard University (BU) rating system. It assesses a wide range of pool skills and provides a numeric and descriptive rating. The BU rating comparison chart (Download) shows how the BU rating correlates to other commonly used rating and handicapping systems.
For more info, visit billiards.colostate.edu
Pocket
Billiards and Pool Pocket Information
... effects and physical characteristics related to pool table pockets.
(external web-links) for more information:
see Section 3.06 in The Illustrated Principles of Pool and Billiards and Disc I of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Shots
Corner pocket rattle and how to avoid it
How do I aim to prevent the OB from rattling out of a corner pocket?
This happens when the ball hits the near rail cushion or point with speed before entering the pocket. Here's a good demonstration of this effect:
NV 3.13 - Corner pocket near rail effects (YouTube)
Also, super slow motion clip below shows why it happens fairly clearly. The cushion imparts side spin to the ball, changing the rebound angle off the inner wall of the pocket:
... effects and physical characteristics related to pool table pockets.
(external web-links) for more information:
see Section 3.06 in The Illustrated Principles of Pool and Billiards and Disc I of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Shots
Corner pocket rattle and how to avoid it
How do I aim to prevent the OB from rattling out of a corner pocket?
This happens when the ball hits the near rail cushion or point with speed before entering the pocket. Here's a good demonstration of this effect:
NV 3.13 - Corner pocket near rail effects (YouTube)
Also, super slow motion clip below shows why it happens fairly clearly. The cushion imparts side spin to the ball, changing the rebound angle off the inner wall of the pocket:
The following instructional articles also have some good illustrations, descriptions, and online demos of this and other related effects: (Downloads)
"Just How Big are the Pockets, Anyway - Part I" (BD, November, 2004).
"Just How Big are the Pockets, Anyway - Part II" (BD, December, 2004).
"Just How Big are the Pockets, Anyway - Part III" (BD, January, 2005).
"Helping" English
Can spin transfer be used to "help" an object ball into a corner pocket?
Theoretically, yes; but practically, this is not very effective with typical conditions. There's more info on spin transfer in "throw" section.
from Bob Jewett:
It's easy to see how much side spin you can get on an object ball by banking a stripe and "twisting" (transferring side to) the object ball. It's not much. Maybe that little bit of side spin is useful for getting balls to drop when they are barely at the edge of hanging up, but I think any advantage is negligible, especially compared to the aiming issues when using side spin.
I think the real advantage of this technique is that it gives you confidence.
from Patrick Johnson:
The amount of spin you can transfer to an OB is too small to make a difference unless the visible pocket opening is very small. Shooting at a small target is exactly when you don't want to compromise your accuracy with side spin, especially since it rarely is helpful.
Transferred spin wears off quickly, so it could only make a difference on short shots or on shots you hit harder. You probably don't need it on short shots because you can hit the pocket opening pretty accurately already (unless you add side spin to the equation), and hitting shots harder makes it much more likely the OB will jaw (in addition to also reducing accuracy even more).
In other words, it's a bad idea and a myth. They're common in pool (another related one is "rail hugging English").
Accuracy is reduced not just because of squirve, but also because the amount of side spin and the amount of throw increase together - so the more effective "helping English" might be the less accurate the shot is. It's a losing proposition every way you look at it.
... if the shot really needs "helping English" you should choose another shot.
from Jal:
Some exceptions might be:
- The OB is frozen to another ball and the carom angle will force it uncomfortably close to the far point of a pocket. The fact that they're frozen, however, allows you to take considerable liberties with the contact point, as long as you do carom it off the other ball.
- The OB is close to a pocket, but an interfering ball makes for a similar situation. Here, a relatively small error in the impact/throw direction can be more than compensated by imparted spin.
Pocket "size" and "center"
Does the effective size and aiming point for a pocket vary with approach angle?
Yes. See the diagrams and examples in the following instructional articles: (Downloads)
"Just How Big are the Pockets, Anyway - Part I" (BD, November, 2004).
"Just How Big are the Pockets, Anyway - Part II" (BD, December, 2004).
"Just How Big are the Pockets, Anyway - Part III" (BD, January, 2005).
For example, with a corner pocket, at shallow angles to the rail (about 2 degrees from the rail), because the object ball can glance off the rail well in front of the pocket and still go in, the effective "size" of the pocket is much larger at that angle.
As shown in Diagram 3 in "Just How Big are the Pockets, Anyway - Part I" (Download) (BD, November, 2004). The "offsets" are measured relative to the geometric center of the pocket at the leading rail edge of the pocket jaws. The offset vs. entry angle plots near the ends of TP 3.5 and 3.6 (external web-link) show how the "target center" varies with entry angle. For a slow shot, the point varies by as much as about 0.6 inches for a typical corner pocket and about 0.3 inches for a typical side pocket.
Here's a useful app from slach on AZB that lets you select a pocket and shot speed (slow or fast) and move the CB and OB interactively (with the mouse). It then reports shot margins for errors and other interesting information for any shot:
Pool Shot Analyzer (requires Java to run) (traditional web-based "only")
Point compression
Is it possible to deform the point (or knuckle) of a pocket enough to force a ball in?
Yes. See:
NV B.28 - Pocket point compression shot (YouTube)
Cushion compression away from the pockets can also be used to help make certain shots. For example, see:
HSV B.20 - rail cushion compression shots (YouTube)
"Tight" pockets
What makes pockets "tight" or "tough"?
See the Table Difficulty Factor (TDF) on "table" section
"Just How Big are the Pockets, Anyway - Part I" (BD, November, 2004).
"Just How Big are the Pockets, Anyway - Part II" (BD, December, 2004).
"Just How Big are the Pockets, Anyway - Part III" (BD, January, 2005).
"Helping" English
Can spin transfer be used to "help" an object ball into a corner pocket?
Theoretically, yes; but practically, this is not very effective with typical conditions. There's more info on spin transfer in "throw" section.
from Bob Jewett:
It's easy to see how much side spin you can get on an object ball by banking a stripe and "twisting" (transferring side to) the object ball. It's not much. Maybe that little bit of side spin is useful for getting balls to drop when they are barely at the edge of hanging up, but I think any advantage is negligible, especially compared to the aiming issues when using side spin.
I think the real advantage of this technique is that it gives you confidence.
from Patrick Johnson:
The amount of spin you can transfer to an OB is too small to make a difference unless the visible pocket opening is very small. Shooting at a small target is exactly when you don't want to compromise your accuracy with side spin, especially since it rarely is helpful.
Transferred spin wears off quickly, so it could only make a difference on short shots or on shots you hit harder. You probably don't need it on short shots because you can hit the pocket opening pretty accurately already (unless you add side spin to the equation), and hitting shots harder makes it much more likely the OB will jaw (in addition to also reducing accuracy even more).
In other words, it's a bad idea and a myth. They're common in pool (another related one is "rail hugging English").
Accuracy is reduced not just because of squirve, but also because the amount of side spin and the amount of throw increase together - so the more effective "helping English" might be the less accurate the shot is. It's a losing proposition every way you look at it.
... if the shot really needs "helping English" you should choose another shot.
from Jal:
Some exceptions might be:
- The OB is frozen to another ball and the carom angle will force it uncomfortably close to the far point of a pocket. The fact that they're frozen, however, allows you to take considerable liberties with the contact point, as long as you do carom it off the other ball.
- The OB is close to a pocket, but an interfering ball makes for a similar situation. Here, a relatively small error in the impact/throw direction can be more than compensated by imparted spin.
Pocket "size" and "center"
Does the effective size and aiming point for a pocket vary with approach angle?
Yes. See the diagrams and examples in the following instructional articles: (Downloads)
"Just How Big are the Pockets, Anyway - Part I" (BD, November, 2004).
"Just How Big are the Pockets, Anyway - Part II" (BD, December, 2004).
"Just How Big are the Pockets, Anyway - Part III" (BD, January, 2005).
For example, with a corner pocket, at shallow angles to the rail (about 2 degrees from the rail), because the object ball can glance off the rail well in front of the pocket and still go in, the effective "size" of the pocket is much larger at that angle.
As shown in Diagram 3 in "Just How Big are the Pockets, Anyway - Part I" (Download) (BD, November, 2004). The "offsets" are measured relative to the geometric center of the pocket at the leading rail edge of the pocket jaws. The offset vs. entry angle plots near the ends of TP 3.5 and 3.6 (external web-link) show how the "target center" varies with entry angle. For a slow shot, the point varies by as much as about 0.6 inches for a typical corner pocket and about 0.3 inches for a typical side pocket.
Here's a useful app from slach on AZB that lets you select a pocket and shot speed (slow or fast) and move the CB and OB interactively (with the mouse). It then reports shot margins for errors and other interesting information for any shot:
Pool Shot Analyzer (requires Java to run) (traditional web-based "only")
Point compression
Is it possible to deform the point (or knuckle) of a pocket enough to force a ball in?
Yes. See:
NV B.28 - Pocket point compression shot (YouTube)
Cushion compression away from the pockets can also be used to help make certain shots. For example, see:
HSV B.20 - rail cushion compression shots (YouTube)
"Tight" pockets
What makes pockets "tight" or "tough"?
See the Table Difficulty Factor (TDF) on "table" section
For more info, visit billiards.colostate.edu
Position (Cue Ball) Control
Position (Cue Ball) Control in Pool and Billiards
... how to control cue ball motion and play for position at the pool table.
(external web-links) for more information:
see Chapter 5 in The Illustrated Principles of Pool and Billiards,
Disc I and Disc II of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Shots (VEPS) , and
Disc I and Disc II of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Practice (VEPP)
45-degree rule for center-table position and routes
What is the 45-degree rule, and how is it used to position the CB at or through the center of the table?
It states that if the CB rolls into the short rail at close to a 45-degree angle, it will head off two rails fairly close to the center of the table. For more info, see the following demonstration from Disc II of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Shots (VEPS) (external web-link):
... how to control cue ball motion and play for position at the pool table.
(external web-links) for more information:
see Chapter 5 in The Illustrated Principles of Pool and Billiards,
Disc I and Disc II of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Shots (VEPS) , and
Disc I and Disc II of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Practice (VEPP)
45-degree rule for center-table position and routes
What is the 45-degree rule, and how is it used to position the CB at or through the center of the table?
It states that if the CB rolls into the short rail at close to a 45-degree angle, it will head off two rails fairly close to the center of the table. For more info, see the following demonstration from Disc II of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Shots (VEPS) (external web-link):
See "VEPS GEMS - Part III: English and Position Control" (Download) (BD, March, 2010) for more information.
Here's a good drill from Disc II of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Practice (VEPP) (external web-link) for practicing getting to the center of the table off pocket hangers:
Here's a good drill from Disc II of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Practice (VEPP) (external web-link) for practicing getting to the center of the table off pocket hangers:
See “VEPP – Part V: Hanger Table-Center Drills,” (Download) (BD, August, 2012) for more information.
drills for practicing cue ball control and position play
What are some useful drills for getting better at cue ball control and position play?
The following drills are excellent for learning and improving cue ball control and position play:
leaving an angle on a shot and coming into the line of a shot
How do I do this?
See the following demonstration from Disc II of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Shots: (external web-link)
Watch YouTube video here
Sometimes, it is important to play for a precise point or line, rather to a general area. Here's an example from Disc III of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Shots: (external web-link)
Watch YouTube video here
Nearly straight-in shots
How can I get position on the next shot if the current shot is nearly straight in?
See: NV B.30 - Cue ball position control with nearly straight-in shots.(YouTube)
Rail cut-shot 60-degree rule
How can I predict final cue ball direction for rail cut shots?
For rolling-cue-ball rail cut shots, you can use the 30-degree rule, as illustrated in the diagram below. The peace sign can be used to visualize the expected angle off the OB if the rail were not there, and the mirror of this angle gives you the final cue ball direction. An interesting fact is that the sum of the angle of the initial CB line relative to the rail and the mirror angle relative to the rail normal always adds to 60 degrees (see the quote from mohrt below). This is because 90 - 30 = 60.
drills for practicing cue ball control and position play
What are some useful drills for getting better at cue ball control and position play?
The following drills are excellent for learning and improving cue ball control and position play:
- Billiard University (BU) playing-ability exams found on "drills and games" section
- line-of-balls drill found on "drills and games" section
- "playing the ghost" rating drills found on "player ratings" section
- position control drills found on "drills and games" section
- target practice drills found on "drills and games" section
- 3-ball drill found on "drills and games" section
- wagon wheel drills found on "drills and games" section
leaving an angle on a shot and coming into the line of a shot
How do I do this?
See the following demonstration from Disc II of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Shots: (external web-link)
Watch YouTube video here
Sometimes, it is important to play for a precise point or line, rather to a general area. Here's an example from Disc III of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Shots: (external web-link)
Watch YouTube video here
Nearly straight-in shots
How can I get position on the next shot if the current shot is nearly straight in?
See: NV B.30 - Cue ball position control with nearly straight-in shots.(YouTube)
Rail cut-shot 60-degree rule
How can I predict final cue ball direction for rail cut shots?
For rolling-cue-ball rail cut shots, you can use the 30-degree rule, as illustrated in the diagram below. The peace sign can be used to visualize the expected angle off the OB if the rail were not there, and the mirror of this angle gives you the final cue ball direction. An interesting fact is that the sum of the angle of the initial CB line relative to the rail and the mirror angle relative to the rail normal always adds to 60 degrees (see the quote from mohrt below). This is because 90 - 30 = 60.
English can be used to alter the path. Also, using stun or draw or less than full forward roll can also be used to alter the path.
from mohrt:
from mohrt:
If you come into the rail at 30 degrees, the path will be 30 degrees out. If you come in at 15 degrees, it will be 45 degrees out. If you come in at 25 degrees, it will be 35 degrees out. Notice it always adds up to 60 degrees.
Scratch avoidance
How do I avoid a scratch in different situations?
See the following video demonstrations: (YouTube)
Speed effects
What effect does shot speed have on the 90-degree and 30-degree rules?
Shot speed has no effect on the 90-degree rule. With a stun shot, the CB heads straight down the tangent line, regardless of speed.
With follow and draw shots, the CB persists along the tangent line longer before curving to the final direction, as demonstrated in this video(YouTube)
For more information, including the effects of cue elevation, see: HSV B.23 - cue ball path speed, spin, and cue elevation effects. (YouTube)
When using the 30-degree rule, this diagram shows how you need to shift the peace-sign down the tangent line with faster speeds, to predict the final CB direction:
Scratch avoidance
How do I avoid a scratch in different situations?
See the following video demonstrations: (YouTube)
- NV 3.7 - Using the 90° rule to check for and prevent a scratch
- NV B.25 - Using draw and side spin to beat a scratch in a side pocket, with Tom Ross
- NV B.31 - Using inside English and follow to beat a scratch and get down-table position
- NV B.46 - Cue ball path scratch avoid, cluster break-out, and billiard (carom) examples
- HSV B.12 - Beating a scratch by bouncing the cue ball off the rear rim of a pocket
Speed effects
What effect does shot speed have on the 90-degree and 30-degree rules?
Shot speed has no effect on the 90-degree rule. With a stun shot, the CB heads straight down the tangent line, regardless of speed.
With follow and draw shots, the CB persists along the tangent line longer before curving to the final direction, as demonstrated in this video(YouTube)
For more information, including the effects of cue elevation, see: HSV B.23 - cue ball path speed, spin, and cue elevation effects. (YouTube)
When using the 30-degree rule, this diagram shows how you need to shift the peace-sign down the tangent line with faster speeds, to predict the final CB direction:
For more information, see "90° and 30° Rule Follow-up - Part V: the final chapter" (Download) (June, 2005).
With draw shots, a similar shift with speed occurs, based on this diagram:
With draw shots, a similar shift with speed occurs, based on this diagram:
For more information, see "Draw Shot Primer - Part I: physics" (Download) (January, 2006).
The condition of the cloth also has an effect. With a slicker cloth, the CB persists along the tangent line longer before curving to the final direction. For more info, see cloth effects in "table" section.
Useful reference lines
How can I know where the cue ball will go on every type of shot?
See: (YouTube Videos)
For more info, see:
Where the CB goes for different types of shots
Where will the cue ball go after it hits an object ball?
For a stun shot, most people know the right answer: in the tangent line direction, perpendicular to the OB direction. This is the 90-degree rule (see "The 90° rule: Part I - the basics" - (Download) BD, January, 2004). If you want a more precise answer that accounts for various effects (e.g., friction and English), see the following instructional articles: (Downloads)
"90° and 30° Rule Follow-up - Part II: speed effects" (BD, March, 2005).
"90° and 30° Rule Follow-up - Part III: inelasticity and friction effects" (BD, April, 2005).
"90° and 30° Rule Follow-up - Part IV: english effects" (BD, May, 2005).
"90° and 30° Rule Follow-up - Part V: the final chapter" (BD, June, 2005).
FYI, here is a convenient one-page summary of the 90-degree rule. (Download)
For a rolling CB, the cue ball changes direction by about 30 degrees for a wide range of cut shots (1/4 to 3/4 ball hit). This is the 30 degree rule (see "The 30° rule: Part I - the basics" - (Download) BD, April, 2004). If you want to be more precise, the angle is a little more (about 34 degrees) closer to a 1/2-ball hit and a little less (about 27 degrees) closer to a 1/4-ball or 3/4-ball hit. If you want to know how to account for speed effects, see "90° and 30° Rule Follow-up - Part V: the final chapter" (Download) (BD, June, 2005). If you want an easy way to use your hand to accurately visualize the cue ball direction, use the Dr. Dave peace-sign technique. FYI, here is a convenient one-page summary of the 30-degree rule. (Download)
For a draw shot with good draw action, and for cut angles smaller than about 40 degrees (i.e., ball-hit fraction greater than about 3/8), the trisect system is your answer (see "Draw Shot Primer - Part III: using the trisect system" - (Download) BD, March, 2006). You can use a modified version of the Dr. Dave peace-sign technique to predict the cue ball direction (see the article (Download), NV B.43 (YouTube), and NV B.67 (YouTube) for illustrations and examples).
For shots "in between" all of these different cases, the cue ball will go somewhere in between the indicated directions. The only way to get a feel for how much "in between" the cue ball will go is to practice ... a lot!
For more info, see Disc I and Disc II of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Shots (external web-links) and: (YouTube Videos)
What if the cut is very thin or hit very full?
For roll shots, there are good approximations for the CB deflection angles.
For a fairly full hit, with a ball-hit-fraction greater than 3/4, the CB will deflect about 3-times the cut angle.
For a fairly thin hit, with a ball-hit-fraction less than 1/4, the CB will deflect about 70% of the angle between the aiming line and the tangent line.
See "Rolling Cue Ball Deflection Angle Approximations" (Download) (BD, November, 2011) for illustrations, examples, and more information.
There are similar rules for draw shots. For more information, see "Draw Shot Cue Ball Directions" (Download) (BD, December, 2011).
As with the 30 degree rule and trisect system, the full-hit and thin-hit rules apply to the final direction of the CB. The actual final path of the CB is shifted down the tangent line with higher speed.
Video demonstrations of these types of shots can be found in Disc I of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Shots. (external web-link)
from Jal (from AZB post (external forum-link), which contains additional information):
When the balls are close enough to each other and/or you're hitting hard enough such that the cue ball doesn't lose any significant backspin on the way to the object ball (or gain more topspin), there is a method of determining the cue ball's direction once it reaches natural roll after the collision. I call it the Bottom-Center-Arrow method, or B-C-A for short, in that it's easy to remember.
Imagine a circle centered on the ghost ball with the bottom of the circle running through the center of the cue ball. This circle represents the face of the cue ball from the shooter's perspective. To determine the CB's roll direction after the collision for any vertical offset (no side spin applied), draw a line from the center of the real cue ball parallel to the line of centers between the ghost ball and the object ball. This will intersect the tangent line at 90 degrees, call it point A. Thus, we have a triangle with the CB at vertex B (bottom of the circle), the ghost ball at C (center of the circle) and point A from which we'll draw an arrow such that it intersects the vertical axis of the large circle. This yields the CB's direction once roll sets in, given that vertical tip offset on the face of cue ball. Here's a diagram:
The condition of the cloth also has an effect. With a slicker cloth, the CB persists along the tangent line longer before curving to the final direction. For more info, see cloth effects in "table" section.
Useful reference lines
How can I know where the cue ball will go on every type of shot?
See: (YouTube Videos)
- NV B.43 - Cue ball position control stun, roll, and draw reference lines
- NV B.44 - Dr. Dave 30-degree-rule peace-sign hand calibration
- NV B.45 - Cue ball path speed effects
- NV B.46 - Cue ball path scratch avoid, cluster break-out, and billiard (carom) examples
- NV B.60 - Mike Page's Cue Ball Control (part 1)
- NV B.60 - Mike Page's Cue Ball Control (part 2)
- NV B.66 - The 30-degree rule, from VEPS I
- NV B.67 - The trisect system for draw shots, from VEPS I
For more info, see:
- "Fundamentals - Part V: CB position control" (Download) (BD, January, 2009)
- "Fundamentals - Part VI: CB control examples" (Download) (BD, February, 2009)
Where the CB goes for different types of shots
Where will the cue ball go after it hits an object ball?
For a stun shot, most people know the right answer: in the tangent line direction, perpendicular to the OB direction. This is the 90-degree rule (see "The 90° rule: Part I - the basics" - (Download) BD, January, 2004). If you want a more precise answer that accounts for various effects (e.g., friction and English), see the following instructional articles: (Downloads)
"90° and 30° Rule Follow-up - Part II: speed effects" (BD, March, 2005).
"90° and 30° Rule Follow-up - Part III: inelasticity and friction effects" (BD, April, 2005).
"90° and 30° Rule Follow-up - Part IV: english effects" (BD, May, 2005).
"90° and 30° Rule Follow-up - Part V: the final chapter" (BD, June, 2005).
FYI, here is a convenient one-page summary of the 90-degree rule. (Download)
For a rolling CB, the cue ball changes direction by about 30 degrees for a wide range of cut shots (1/4 to 3/4 ball hit). This is the 30 degree rule (see "The 30° rule: Part I - the basics" - (Download) BD, April, 2004). If you want to be more precise, the angle is a little more (about 34 degrees) closer to a 1/2-ball hit and a little less (about 27 degrees) closer to a 1/4-ball or 3/4-ball hit. If you want to know how to account for speed effects, see "90° and 30° Rule Follow-up - Part V: the final chapter" (Download) (BD, June, 2005). If you want an easy way to use your hand to accurately visualize the cue ball direction, use the Dr. Dave peace-sign technique. FYI, here is a convenient one-page summary of the 30-degree rule. (Download)
For a draw shot with good draw action, and for cut angles smaller than about 40 degrees (i.e., ball-hit fraction greater than about 3/8), the trisect system is your answer (see "Draw Shot Primer - Part III: using the trisect system" - (Download) BD, March, 2006). You can use a modified version of the Dr. Dave peace-sign technique to predict the cue ball direction (see the article (Download), NV B.43 (YouTube), and NV B.67 (YouTube) for illustrations and examples).
For shots "in between" all of these different cases, the cue ball will go somewhere in between the indicated directions. The only way to get a feel for how much "in between" the cue ball will go is to practice ... a lot!
For more info, see Disc I and Disc II of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Shots (external web-links) and: (YouTube Videos)
- NV D.11 - Cue Ball Control Target Pool Drill - from Vol-II of the Billiard University instructional DVD series
- NV C.5 - Wagon wheel cue ball control drill, from VEPP II
- NV B.73 - Leaving an angle and coming into the line of a shot, from VEPS II
- NV B.74 - Center-of-table position and routes, with the 45-degree rule, from VEPS II
- NV B.75 - 30-degree-rule natural-angle examples, from VEPS III
- NV B.43 - Cue ball position control stun, roll, and draw reference lines
- NV B.44 - Dr. Dave 30-degree-rule peace-sign hand calibration
- NV B.45 - Cue ball path speed effects
- NV B.46 - Cue ball path scratch avoid, cluster break-out, and billiard (carom) example
- NV B.60 - Mike Page's Cue Ball Control (part 1)
- NV B.60 - Mike Page's Cue Ball Control (part 2)
- NV B.66 - The 30-degree rule, from VEPS I
- NV B.67 - The trisect system for draw shots, from VEPS I
- NV B.68 - Tweener cluster breaks, from VEPS I
- "Fundamentals - Part V: CB position control" (Download) (BD, January, 2009).
- "Fundamentals - Part VI: CB control examples" (Download) (BD, February, 2009).
- the 60-degree rule for rail cut shots in this section
- Ralph Eckert's lessons on natural-roll position-play reference lines (YouTube Videos) (part 1, part 2, part 3)
What if the cut is very thin or hit very full?
For roll shots, there are good approximations for the CB deflection angles.
For a fairly full hit, with a ball-hit-fraction greater than 3/4, the CB will deflect about 3-times the cut angle.
For a fairly thin hit, with a ball-hit-fraction less than 1/4, the CB will deflect about 70% of the angle between the aiming line and the tangent line.
See "Rolling Cue Ball Deflection Angle Approximations" (Download) (BD, November, 2011) for illustrations, examples, and more information.
There are similar rules for draw shots. For more information, see "Draw Shot Cue Ball Directions" (Download) (BD, December, 2011).
As with the 30 degree rule and trisect system, the full-hit and thin-hit rules apply to the final direction of the CB. The actual final path of the CB is shifted down the tangent line with higher speed.
Video demonstrations of these types of shots can be found in Disc I of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Shots. (external web-link)
from Jal (from AZB post (external forum-link), which contains additional information):
When the balls are close enough to each other and/or you're hitting hard enough such that the cue ball doesn't lose any significant backspin on the way to the object ball (or gain more topspin), there is a method of determining the cue ball's direction once it reaches natural roll after the collision. I call it the Bottom-Center-Arrow method, or B-C-A for short, in that it's easy to remember.
Imagine a circle centered on the ghost ball with the bottom of the circle running through the center of the cue ball. This circle represents the face of the cue ball from the shooter's perspective. To determine the CB's roll direction after the collision for any vertical offset (no side spin applied), draw a line from the center of the real cue ball parallel to the line of centers between the ghost ball and the object ball. This will intersect the tangent line at 90 degrees, call it point A. Thus, we have a triangle with the CB at vertex B (bottom of the circle), the ghost ball at C (center of the circle) and point A from which we'll draw an arrow such that it intersects the vertical axis of the large circle. This yields the CB's direction once roll sets in, given that vertical tip offset on the face of cue ball. Here's a diagram:
... friction, amongst other things, has an effect on this idealized geometry.
For more info, visit billiards.colostate.edu
Pre-shot Routine
Pre-shot Routine in Pool and Billiards
... the process you go through to aim and prepare for a shot.
Definition
What is a pre-shot routine?
A pre-shot routine is a sequence of steps you go through in preparation to aim and shoot a shot. It is generally recommended that this routine be followed consistently for every shot. Elements of a pre-shot routine include planning, chalking, aiming, aligning, approaching, forming the stance, and preparing and executing the stroke. For more information, see the recommended best practices below.
Recommended best practices
What are some recommended "best practices" for the pre-shot routine?
The following video, from Disc I of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Practice (VEPP), (external web-links) describes and demonstrates elements of a good pre-shot routine:
... the process you go through to aim and prepare for a shot.
Definition
What is a pre-shot routine?
A pre-shot routine is a sequence of steps you go through in preparation to aim and shoot a shot. It is generally recommended that this routine be followed consistently for every shot. Elements of a pre-shot routine include planning, chalking, aiming, aligning, approaching, forming the stance, and preparing and executing the stroke. For more information, see the recommended best practices below.
Recommended best practices
What are some recommended "best practices" for the pre-shot routine?
The following video, from Disc I of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Practice (VEPP), (external web-links) describes and demonstrates elements of a good pre-shot routine:
For more information, see "VEPP – Part I: Introduction and Fundamentals," (Download) (BD, April, 2012). This video also provides excellent advice: NV B.5 - Mike Page's pre-shot routine video (part 1, part 2). (YouTube Videos) Also, these two articles by Bob Jewett offer excellent advice:
Bob Jewett's August '00 BD article dealing with pre-shot routine (Download)
Here's some good advice from RalphEckert focusing on the grip hand (YouTube). And here are some thoughts by Max Eberle. (external web-link)
An important part of a pre-shot routine is creating good alignment with your vision center positioned properly for consistent and accurate sighting. It is also important to have a consistent and purposeful eye pattern.
Concerning the stroke, recommended best practices are described and demonstrated here:
stroke "best practices" in "stroke" section.
Bob Jewett's August '00 BD article dealing with pre-shot routine (Download)
Here's some good advice from RalphEckert focusing on the grip hand (YouTube). And here are some thoughts by Max Eberle. (external web-link)
An important part of a pre-shot routine is creating good alignment with your vision center positioned properly for consistent and accurate sighting. It is also important to have a consistent and purposeful eye pattern.
Concerning the stroke, recommended best practices are described and demonstrated here:
stroke "best practices" in "stroke" section.
For more info, visit billiards.colostate.edu